• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Couple of problems

Stewart

Darth Vader
Country flag
Offline
Ok as I bring back my B the deeper I go the more stuff needs to be done.

I fixed the problem I had with the carb and got it to run briefly which brought to light more problems.

When it fired up it ran quite rich at idle which was expected but one cylinder was not firing. Confirmed by removing the plug wire. Previously I had removed the wire and plug in order to get a new set of plugs. At that point I went ahead and changed the plugs checked all the wires and went to fire it up again. It started right up but quickly lost power and was never responded to throttle input. Pulled the plugs and they were wet. It has not started up since but does now hint at firing.

I was thinking for this problem new wires cap and rotor but if anyone has any suggestions I'm all ears.

Problem 2.
Temp gauge appears to be working backwards. Was working properly prior to pulling the carb off and rebuilding it. Since everything was reinstalled its been backwards. Any idea on what I did wrong or did Lucas strike again.

Thanks for the help.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Ok as I bring back my B the deeper I go the more stuff needs to be done.


[/ QUOTE ]

Welcome to classic car restoration!

OK - you say one plug wasn't firing. Do you mean that after you did the carb work (what did you do, by the way?), the plug stopped firing?

You adjusted the mixture and idle, and still have an overly rich mixture? My Weber DGAV was hosed to the water jacket incorrectly, so it never could fully open the choke - thus rich idle all the time.

Is there a spark at the tip of the wire (with the plug removed)? This would tell us if the problem is the plug itself, or something farther up the chain.

The plugs are wet - with what? I hope you mean gas and not water!

Your temp gauge runs backwards. Do yyou mean it reads H all the time when the car is cold and *not* running, and it moves from H to N to C as the car warms up? Is this the stock gauge?

I probably missed something in this (short) thread, but what carb(s) do you have, and what other engine work and mods have been done?

Tom
 
I pulled the Stromsburg carb apart and replaced all the gaskets and rubber parts along with a good cleaning. Installed a new auto choke as well. Reset the idle to 2 for the coarse and 2.5 on the fine. Engine fired right up except for the mentioned cyl. and ran very rich. Replaced all the plugs at that time and that's when it started and ran very briefly. The plugs were wet with gas. It hasn't run since.
Unfortunately I'm not able to check for spark as I am working alone and my arms are not quite long enough but the engine is trying to start so I'm assuming there is at least a weak spark.

The temp gauge when the ignition is turned on goes strait to hot.

Right now the MG is stock and the only other work that's been done is a change of all fluids and the replacement of the radiator and all hoses associated with it. This is a 75' mgb
 
Worked on this on and off all week. It's now running as long as I keep the engine above 1500 rpm. Dropping below that rpm results in the engine flooding out. Engine Idles great at 700rpm as long as the fuel pump is disabled. The float in the carb was set at 17mm initially and has been raised up to 19 to get it to idle at 1500. Any insight or hints would be greatly appreciated.

thanks
 
Back
Top