Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
I would like to start a posting on how to get rid of rust and corrosion(spelling?). my 73 B GT was sitting for 2 years and under the hood is rust and a white powder corrosion that I would like to get rid of. Any one have any ideas or products. I know about Rust Mort, I used it on hrse trailers to kill rust. Anything out there as good or better. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thirsty.gif
-
Hi Guest!
You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Corrosion and rust
- Thread starter LLAngus
- Start date
Share this page
Offline
"Ospho" is another one, but I've stuck with the SEM product on this B project. Even put some in a Binks airbrush to get it up inside the inner fender areas inaccessable with a brush. It seems to work. Still gonna sandblast the heater boxes and thin layer fiberglass them, tho. I'd Rather have a plastic liner than painted metal there.
Over the past couple of years, I have become a huge fan of POR15...it requires careful preparation with their products, Marine Clean and Metal Ready, and makes the most solid metal protection I have ever seen. A little bit goes a long way and it can be bought online from several dealers. I suggest buying it in the six-pack of small(half pint?) cans because once you open it, you should use it right away. They even sell cheap brushes, because it is impossible to clean up. One more thing...wear gloves, because it will stick to your skin until the skin wears off too!
I have used it to coat my tub and renew suspension parts. I also used some left over POR15 to coat a rusty anchor and trailer parts for my bass boat without any prep and it has not worn off of anything yet.
Bruce /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
I have used it to coat my tub and renew suspension parts. I also used some left over POR15 to coat a rusty anchor and trailer parts for my bass boat without any prep and it has not worn off of anything yet.
Bruce /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
Tom Rynne
Senior Member
Offline
One of the very real rust issues on the MG's is that the unibody construction is often made by folding several layers of sheet metal then spot welding these together.
The metal itself was raw steel and of varying quality so these areas are where the tin worm begins and then works it's way to the outside where you begin to see bubbling.
Materials like waxoil and the rust proofer Eastwood sells do not seal the rust in the flanges because it is too thick to get in there. The best product to use in all the seams is Penetrol which will creep into the seams by capilary action. It is very thin and you will need to soak areas like door bottoms and sills until it is absolutely running out but once it dries rust will not keep going and it can be top costed or painted. It is available in quarts and gallons at Lowes and Home Depot.
Drill some 1/2 inch holes in non obvious spots and spray it in with a cheap garden sprayer then put plastic plugs in the holes. Put down a tarp or paper to catch what will run out. Makes a huge mess and it works!
The metal itself was raw steel and of varying quality so these areas are where the tin worm begins and then works it's way to the outside where you begin to see bubbling.
Materials like waxoil and the rust proofer Eastwood sells do not seal the rust in the flanges because it is too thick to get in there. The best product to use in all the seams is Penetrol which will creep into the seams by capilary action. It is very thin and you will need to soak areas like door bottoms and sills until it is absolutely running out but once it dries rust will not keep going and it can be top costed or painted. It is available in quarts and gallons at Lowes and Home Depot.
Drill some 1/2 inch holes in non obvious spots and spray it in with a cheap garden sprayer then put plastic plugs in the holes. Put down a tarp or paper to catch what will run out. Makes a huge mess and it works!
dklawson
Yoda
Offline
The Metal Ready chemical sold by POR-15 is a similar (phosphoric acid) product to the Ospho mentioned above. If you choose to spray Ospho or Metal Ready, consider using spritzer-type spray bottle like you can buy for a $1 at the home center. Needless to say, inhaling acid isn't pleasant and it will do a number on your spray equipment.
I like POR also, but it's a very labor and time intensive coating to apply correctly. It also doesn't stick worth a darn to "sound" metal. The surface being coated needs to be rough (sanded, sandblasted, rusted, or heavily acid etched).
I like POR also, but it's a very labor and time intensive coating to apply correctly. It also doesn't stick worth a darn to "sound" metal. The surface being coated needs to be rough (sanded, sandblasted, rusted, or heavily acid etched).
Offline
Would the POR-15 be a better "answer" to a ~well~ rusted heater box than fiberglass? I intend to sandblast the interior areas, but I know there's gonna be some spots I can't access with the nozzle, and I'd have treated seams. etc. with RustMort, then 'glassed the box interior before painting. Admittedly I'm an Old Dog but willing and able to learn a new trick or two: All opinions entertained!
TIA.
TIA.
dklawson
Yoda
Offline
POR is good for fixing pin holes and protects the metal but without reinforcement (like fiberglass... which they also sell) it doesn't make damaged metal any stronger. Visit the POR-15 web site and browse around, I believe they still sell a point-bonded (non-woven) fiberglass mat for making repairs along with epoxy putty for filling larger cracks and holes prior to painting.
POR is good stuff, don't get me wrong, but it requires a lot of very careful prep work if you want good, lasting results. It is also so glasslike that you'll have a hard time getting "regular" paint to stick to it. Their Tie Coat primer (in my opinion) is not as good as hitting a tacky POR-15 surface with a fog coat of your regular paint's primer. Anyway, the heater box is an excellent place to try POR, just take your time and do all the necessary steps in their literature if you want good, lasting results.
POR is good stuff, don't get me wrong, but it requires a lot of very careful prep work if you want good, lasting results. It is also so glasslike that you'll have a hard time getting "regular" paint to stick to it. Their Tie Coat primer (in my opinion) is not as good as hitting a tacky POR-15 surface with a fog coat of your regular paint's primer. Anyway, the heater box is an excellent place to try POR, just take your time and do all the necessary steps in their literature if you want good, lasting results.
MGretired
Senior Member
Offline
Here's an interesting site for treating rust....sounds good for small parts..
https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm
https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm
dklawson
Yoda
Offline
You really don't want to attack the white corrosion on zinc plated parts as you'll remove the plating along with the corrosion. I would clean the galvanized parts with fine ScotchBrite followed by traditional prep for painting and finally, a coat of clear enamel.
Duro used to make a product called Aluminum Jelly which was similar to Naval Jelly. Basically it was a reformulated version of phosphoric acid for cleaning aluminum. It would create a mess on color anodized parts but left regular aluminum looking white/silver.
I'd Google for links on polishing aluminum and specifically sites involving AirStream trailers. The guys who own those things know more tricks to fixing and polishing aluminum than almost anyone else. Most of them know "common" chemicals and supplies to use to get mirror smooth results.
Duro used to make a product called Aluminum Jelly which was similar to Naval Jelly. Basically it was a reformulated version of phosphoric acid for cleaning aluminum. It would create a mess on color anodized parts but left regular aluminum looking white/silver.
I'd Google for links on polishing aluminum and specifically sites involving AirStream trailers. The guys who own those things know more tricks to fixing and polishing aluminum than almost anyone else. Most of them know "common" chemicals and supplies to use to get mirror smooth results.
I tried to scotch brite the white powdery stuff on my break lines but it won't come off without so serious elbow grease and the plating seems to be affected. Any easier way to do this with a chemical or other???? This is th ebiggest bug a boo with this car and I would like to clean everything up so I can show off the motor.