Correct fluid in BJ8 tranny

[fordtrucks4ever]

I noticed my tranny is filled with 90 wt or thicker grease. Just wanting to find out what is a good choice to replace with. The OD has become sluggish at best, and thought might as well do the usual changing of fluids and check for any debris when I clean the solenoid.

 

[Keoke]

I noticed my tranny is filled with 90 wt or thicker grease.--WOT!!!----- :shocked:


Just wanting to find out what is a good choice to replace with.

--Simplifying your spares using the same oil as you use in the engine will suffice.

The OD has become sluggish at best,---[ I can imagine ] :frown:

and thought might as well do the usual changing of fluids and check for any debris when I clean the solenoid.-

-Sounds like how that is going to be required.--Keoke-

----------------------------------AZ- :cowboy:

 

[TimK]

The accumulator cylinders are where sludge collects, cleaning these out may help.

 

[1965AH3000]

Redline 90W

 

[Keoke]

Redline 90W



Gonna Leak-------------------- :lol:

 

[Donny_L]

Hey Keoke, whats the difference betwene his trans and my 61 BT7 that you told me to use VR1 60w in the trans? and should I use the same VR1 60w in the engine?

 

[Keoke]

Hey Keoke, whats the difference betwene his trans and my 61 BT7-
-
That Red line stuff tends to leak out of some of the Healey trannys don't make any difference which kind it is,-OK

that you told me to use VR1 60w in the trans? and should I use the same VR1 60w in the engine?


Has right additivies for old time engine and the early Healey transmissions.

Den you only need to buy one kind of oil and also carry one type in the boot to go either place if you need it.I suggested the same thing to him---Keoke--

 

[RAC68]

Hi All,

I have used straight 30W and 10W30 for most of the 46 years I have owned my Healey with good results. About 2 years ago I changed to Red Line MTL and found marginally better results. However, when using MTL synthetic, I experienced leaks from more transmission locations than I ever imagined.

A few months ago, I came across this article “Overdrive oil recommendation” by Quantum Mechanics ( https://www.mgtoronto.com/pdf/Tech/Overdrive_oil.pdf ) that presents the results of testing different oils on our overdrives. It is a quick read.

Although I still have MTL in my transmission, I plan to switch back to straight 30W for my next change. However, this decision is dependent upon my finding good 30W oil.

Ray (64BJ8P1)

 

[Keoke]

Hi Ray:


Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil comes in a straight 30 weight.

There may be others.???--Keoke

 

[Donny_L]

That was a cool article. I did go and buy the VR1 60w back when you first suggested it Keoke but havn't put it in yet.In light of this article should I go get the VR1 30w instead? Or should I just stick with the 60w and not worry about it? It is what you've been using for some time isn't it?

 

[Keoke]

Yes Donny, I have used 60 WT VR1 in my cars since day one.

Also it is hot as the up there in Vegas land
.-- :laugh:

 

[tahoe healey]

I have always heard that the gear box oil must be non detergent so as not to keep debris in suspension. You want it to fall to the bottom and stick to the magnet on the bottom of the gear box. I use Redline and it does leak out but the shifting is smooth.

 

[bob hughes]

I was about to say - what is all the fuss about, the manuals say 20-30

Then I looked into the manuals a bit further, there is a slight variance between the early, the later and the latest manuals ( possibly catching up with the variations in lub production) but generally a 20w-30 or 20w-50 would do for engine and gearbox, but it does depend on your climate- temperature wise. We can still get those grades on this side of the pond.

 

[Johnny]

I've used the "Royal Purple" tranny fluid readily available at O'Reillly's auto parts. It's a synthetic that is similar to redline. I did notice a marked improvement over plain 20w 50w Castrol. Seems to shift sooner and easier. I haven't noticed any increase in leakage. If I recall it's about $9 per qt. but that was a couple years ago.

BTW I don't recall a magnet in the transmission or OD. With the amount of movement in a tranny unless the magnet is secured it could cause severe damage. I know there's one in the engine crankcase and it's in a captive bracket. Oh wait, maybe there's one in the large brass nut below the screen, sorry, another senior moment.

 

[bighealeysource]

So I'm not experiencing a senior momnet like Johnny, isn't straight non detergent 30 weight recommended for the trans with O/D ? Seems like I have read that before and now have a bunch waiting to be put in when I do an engine oil change ( will use 20w50 in the engine) and change out the the trans/O/D at the same time. Have not gone to the redline to avoid possible other leaks as despite having a freshly rebuilt engine and trans in my BN6, she still marks her territory so no reason to give the old gal more opportunity to leak !
Thanks,
Mike

 

[bob hughes]

<span style="color: #FF0000">maybe there's one in the large brass nut below the screen</span>

There's no maybe about it, there definitely is one and it is in the form of two flexible washers, had me puzzled for a while and the amount of steel 'filings' they pick up over time is phenominal. I washed my gear box out with diesel oil and that pulled a lot more out.

Bob

 

[Keoke]

maybe there's one in the large brass nut below the screen--

There's no maybe about it, there definitely is one



YEP , But where did he get the one in the engine must be an aftermarket part.---Keoke-

 

[Ed_K]

For what it's worth...

If your O/drive is in good shape with no internal leaks. I am certain it would work well with 30w oil like it is supposed to.
....
I started out using 30w motor oil. All seemed to be OK until
the hot days of summertime after the car was driven for more than a 1/2 hour and reached maximum heat. My o/drive would not stay " hooked up ". If I pressed on the gas even a small bit, it would act like an worn out automatic transmission and appear to "freewheel" out of o/drive. It took me a long time to eliminate all of the electrical causes and then come to the conclusion that I had some internal leaking. That made sense since the o/drive would not do this on cool days. Only on hot days during the summer.
....
So I had to do something, even if it was wrong, or I would have had to pull out the o/drive and start spending $$$ like mad.
...
I did some experimenting with different oils. I tried the redline MT90, ( same viscosity as 40w motor oil per Dave R.),
but that did not seem to help MY problem. I thought I was done for until Keoke suggested Valvoline VR1 60W oil in the summer, and 50w in the winter.
.... You don't know how happy I was to get MY internal leaking problem fixed by simply using a 60w motor oil !!
It has been working flawlessly ever since. About 3 years now.
........
The bottom line on the selection of the transmission +o/d oil viscosity is this....

If you have a good O/drive, it will work fine with a 30w motor oil.
As your internal parts wear out inside the o/drive, you can restore the full function by just switching to a higher viscosity motor oil.

My advice is to use the the LOWEST viscosity oil ( 30w being the lowest, then MT90 (40w), then 50w, then 60w ) that allows your o/drive to work correctly. Don't try the higher viscosity oils unless you are having problems like I was having.

Maybe one day, the next owner of my car will have to spend the big $$$ on getting the o/drive rebuilt. After three years of good results with 60w, it does not appear that it will be me that has to spend the big money.



Ed K.

 

[TimK]

30w non detergent for transmission and 20w 50 for engine. Why all the discussion? I had the unexplained shift out of OD until I cleaned out the sludge from the accumulator.

 

[Keoke]

30w non detergent for transmission and 20w 50 for engine. Why all the discussion?

WOT!!

ED K, just told you why in a very clear and detailed explanation---Keoke-- :wink: