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Coolent hose replacement

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SteveT

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The radiator in my '76 TR has been replaced with a new after market item without a drain tap or plug. I really can not imagine why anyone, other than $$, would not put the correct item in as a replacement. Anyway, how does one go about draining the radiator to change all the cooling hoses?

Also, how are the heater hoses changed that run under the dash assembly? It looks to me that you have to dismantle the top dash pad to do it; please tell me it ain't so.

Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.

Steve
 
Hi Steve,
Drain the radiator by loosening and pulling the lower return hose away from the spigot on the radiator.
Make sure to have a pan to receive the coolant. This can be a difficult and messy endeavor but be persistent and careful and it will work.

As regards the heater hoses if memory serves these are removeable without disassembling the dashboard.

(Interestingly enough, I think I replaced mine when I did in fact have much of the dash, glovebox and gauges out of the car so I could be incorrect.) Remove the two engine block to bulkhead hoses before the cockpit hoses as this will help drain the heater core.Make sure to have rags and a small pan to catch the inevitable coolant draining from the heater core.

This too is a job for a contortionist with small hands.

Keep on.
 
Paul,

Do you have to disassemble the dash in order to replace the interior heater hoses or can you just remove the glove box? I agree to replace everthing but just not sure how to get to it.

Steve
 
Steve, you can access the area well enough by removing
the glovebox and appertenances to change those hoses.

Remove all hardware surrounding the glovebox opening to
assist on reinstall. Going back in will be really tight
and you'll need the room. Push the box in from the footwell
area with the opening of the box facing out.

Leave the air hose that is at the lowest left portion of the
footwell attached to the heater core. Disconnect the right side of it if you feel you must. Now disconnect the hose at the right side that shoots the air at your feet by removing the two screws on the underside of the metal dash
fascia, again, for room to work.

Put your box into place and then reinstall each of those hoses and any other hardware.

Best of luck,
 
Yep, the cubby box has got to go to get to the two small heater hoses. That said, if you have an original fibre cubbey, be prepared to buy a new, plastic one. They don't like to be removed in one piece. When reinstalling the new, plastic box, ya gotta be kinda rough with it to snap it in place. I chose to use pop rivets to install my plastic box. Have had it out since. I concur on changing that firewall 2-pipe connector. It is usually trashed; always trashed if never changed. Cheap insurance. The one place in the world where those goofy little wire hose clamps works well is inside the dash where the little heater hoses hook up.
 
I thought one would have to remove the box. Another thought though; could I attach the interior hoses to the new bulkhead connector and then feed the hoses through the bulkhead to the heater? I think I can get to the heater connections without removing anything other than the kidney/speaker pad.

Steve
 
I doubt it. Only if you can stand on your head and stack BB's. The path of those little hoses is so tortuous that you really need to address them head on. You might get some Head-On after you finish.
 
I just did this and it really is possible without removing anything but an air hose and the bracket that connects the bulkhead to the bottom of the dash. I had to cut the old (original) hoses off because the screws were facing upwards, but I put the new ones on with the screws accessible, and I used a dab of anti-seize on the screws, so I hope that when the time comes to replace these (another 30 years, I hope!) the job will be a lot easier. Took me about an hour in total, including replacing the bulkhead coupling. Oh, and I am 6'2", 230 lbs, and not as spry as I once was...

If you can't get to the hoses like this, then as far as I can see you haven't lost anything, as you have to remove the bracket to remove the glovebox anyway.

Hope that helps
Alistair
 
A tip:
If your hoses haven't been off in awhile and they are stuck on the fitting, spray some penetrant (WD40 or equilavant) into the mating surface of the hose, anfter moving the hose clamp out of the way. Then use a cotter pin removal tool and work around the hose to loosen it up. Then twist hose back and forth and ease off of its fitting. This will be particularly handy for the lower radiator hose. You don't want to cut the hose if the system is full of coolant.
Actually, cotter pin removal tools are better at this than cotter pins. My first one broke removing a cotter pin. Sears Crafstman replaced it.
 
Hi Steve

I mentioned the coupling only because I replaced it while I was doing the job - it was a bit rusty and I really don't want to find myself doing the job again any time soon!

The hose clamps on the bulkhead ends of my hoses (I think they have been there since the dashboard was installed in 1975) had the screws pointing upwards, so I used a Dremel to cut through them, then put the new clamps on with the screws accessible. It is not easy to get the hoses in place, but I assure you it is possible!

Cheers
Alistair
 
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