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Coolant hose replacement

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SteveT

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Hi all,

Looking for a bit of advice. I have the complete coolant hose kit for a '76 TR6 and will install this weekend. Any advice; how hard of a job is it and how do I avoid any "bubbles" in the system after the job is complete? Also, the kit came with the original wire type clamps and am wondering should I replace them with regular stainless clamps, originality is not that important to me at this time.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Steve
 
If you have the wire clamps, use them. They work fine. Make sure both wires are making a connection. The job is pretty straight forward. Just make sure your clamp screw heads end up facing in a direction that is easily accessible with a screw driver. Clamps can try to spin around the hose when installing.
The bottom radiator hose can be a real bear. Loosen the clamp as much as possible without disconnecting the screw.
Have plenty of patience.
I've never had problems with bubbles.
Oh, drain the entire system thoroughly. Now is a good time to change your antifreeze.
 
I too use the wire clamps because I like the original look plud I don't care for what those cheese-grater varieties do to the hose. If you don't use wires use one of the (more expensive) alternatives that do not cut into the hose.

If a hose just won't seal tight with a wire clamp I have used a more conventional clamp for awhile, then replaced it with a wire after the hose has taken more of a 'set'.
 
Steve

Before you start, may I suggest that you check the condition of the connector at the bulkhead (for the heater hoses)? This really is the easiest time to replace it (the the rubber grommet) - you don't want to have to mess with the heater hoses more often than absolutely necessary!

Cheers
Alistair
 
A VERY small amount of AF on the inside of the hose lip can make for easier "lip on"installation of the hoses that are in tighter areas
 
Thanks for the tips and advice. Alistair, I do have both the connector and grommet for the bulk head.
 
FWIW, I've been using PTFE (teflon) pipe paste as a lube when installing hoses. Seems to make them come off easier next time; which can be important for things like heater fittings in difficult-to-reach places.

If you do go for stainless clamps (which I prefer), be sure to get fully stainless ones. Most auto parts stores these days are selling cheaper clamps where only the band is stainless; the screw and housing will still rust. I get mine from https://www.mcmaster.com/ . And don't over-tighten them. The "cheese grater" effect is from over-tightening.
 
Definitely go with the stainless clamps. The wire clamps are not what they once were and they are prone to leaking, then stripping.

Ask me how I know that....

If you look at the pictures of my engine on my site, you will see all stainless clamps. That was not my plan when I bought the wire units with the hose kit.
 
I use stainless clamps from NAPA . It helps to use a single edged razor to cut one or two lines in the hose before removing, easier to peal off.

Since your doing all this, how is your heater valve?
 
Thanks for all the advice; I got a supply of SS clamps and will use them. On the heater valve, how does one know it is bad?

Steve
 
Mine caused the car to overheat, blew steam like it was a smoke stack and sprayed water all over the engine bay. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

I was pretty sure it had broken. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif
 
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