Hap Waldrop
Yoda

Offline
As a engine/carb rebuilder at Acme Speed Shop I build some race engines, some street engines. Alot of the street people I end up building a engine for come to me with big appetite, they at first want all the bells and whistles, but normally when they see what such a engine cost, they tend to scal e back a good bit. It seems the recipe I been doing most for the 1275 street customet is the following.
Labor
Caustic clean block
Bore cylinders
Line bore block if needed replace main studs or bolts
replace oil galley plugs with removeable NPT plugs
Crank sevice: magnaflux, straight check, index grinding and polish.
Recondition connecting rods with new rod bolts (mostly ARP)
clean, bead blast, re paint if painted all engine add on and tin work.
Cam bearings replaced
Cylinder head: pressure check, bead blast and clean, multi angle valve job, seats if needed, replace guides if needed, etc.
Clean block again, caustic wash and hot water wash.
Paint block before assembly separate, just like done on all other paintable engine components, so you don't get that painted all over after built look.
Assembly
There are other items, but that's the bulk of it on labor. Like all engines are bluprinted as for as all clearences go.
New Parts:
oversized piston set, I like AE 21253, its a good strong piston. They only cost a little bit more than the other offerings.
King, ACL or vandervell bearing, I only use tri metal bearing in everything I build, I dodge the aluminum bearings as if they were a STD /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
oil pump
APT cam and lifters, expensive yes, but not a place to skimp, worth every penny they charge
Some sort of adjustable timing gear set, either the multi key crank sproket set or a real vernier set if budget allows, I given up on offset keys.
ARP rod bolts on all A-series engne, this is a weird one if you order new 1275 rod bolts and nut (a freaking nylock in a 1275) they cost more than a new set of ARP rod bolts, so thats a no brainer as far as I'm concerned /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
Of course the best gaskets, i alway use the good payne conersion set with the rubber oil pan pieces, again worth the extra money.
pilot bushing
water pump
Head stud and manifold studs kits
new grade 8 hardware everywhere else
head parts as needed
There more parts on some motors such,but agin that;s the bulk of it.
Ok that recipe is a good overall rebuild engine with some power gains from slightly raised compression and cam choice. Without shipping this is a $3500+/- engine for a A series. This is the recipe most choose based on budget.
Every once in a while you get a guy on the street who lets you do it performance wise right. Thats exactly the customer I got yesterday. He's very knowledgeable about what is availabe, he restored several cars in his past, show winners and this time his project is pretty serious killer 62 Sprite hot rod. I know this guy well enough to know this is going to be a very serius hot rod car. he's putting Tilton pedal and master cylinder in it like we do on the race car, Aeroquip hoses, he going with custom race seat and a trick aluminum fabricated dash with all Autometer guages, brake upgrades, suspension upgrade, 5 speed tranny, the list go on an on. Anyway he allowed me a very nice engine budget, so I somewhat thrilled I get to do what is going to be a real serious 1275 street motor, Winner circle oil pan, ARP fastners thru out, ported head, trick valves and springs, roller rockers, vernier timing gear set, balancing etc., etc.
So it looks to be a fun project, and I plan on keeping you guys informed along the way of the build, it is sheduled for fall/winter at the shop.
Labor
Caustic clean block
Bore cylinders
Line bore block if needed replace main studs or bolts
replace oil galley plugs with removeable NPT plugs
Crank sevice: magnaflux, straight check, index grinding and polish.
Recondition connecting rods with new rod bolts (mostly ARP)
clean, bead blast, re paint if painted all engine add on and tin work.
Cam bearings replaced
Cylinder head: pressure check, bead blast and clean, multi angle valve job, seats if needed, replace guides if needed, etc.
Clean block again, caustic wash and hot water wash.
Paint block before assembly separate, just like done on all other paintable engine components, so you don't get that painted all over after built look.
Assembly
There are other items, but that's the bulk of it on labor. Like all engines are bluprinted as for as all clearences go.
New Parts:
oversized piston set, I like AE 21253, its a good strong piston. They only cost a little bit more than the other offerings.
King, ACL or vandervell bearing, I only use tri metal bearing in everything I build, I dodge the aluminum bearings as if they were a STD /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
oil pump
APT cam and lifters, expensive yes, but not a place to skimp, worth every penny they charge
Some sort of adjustable timing gear set, either the multi key crank sproket set or a real vernier set if budget allows, I given up on offset keys.
ARP rod bolts on all A-series engne, this is a weird one if you order new 1275 rod bolts and nut (a freaking nylock in a 1275) they cost more than a new set of ARP rod bolts, so thats a no brainer as far as I'm concerned /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
Of course the best gaskets, i alway use the good payne conersion set with the rubber oil pan pieces, again worth the extra money.
pilot bushing
water pump
Head stud and manifold studs kits
new grade 8 hardware everywhere else
head parts as needed
There more parts on some motors such,but agin that;s the bulk of it.
Ok that recipe is a good overall rebuild engine with some power gains from slightly raised compression and cam choice. Without shipping this is a $3500+/- engine for a A series. This is the recipe most choose based on budget.
Every once in a while you get a guy on the street who lets you do it performance wise right. Thats exactly the customer I got yesterday. He's very knowledgeable about what is availabe, he restored several cars in his past, show winners and this time his project is pretty serious killer 62 Sprite hot rod. I know this guy well enough to know this is going to be a very serius hot rod car. he's putting Tilton pedal and master cylinder in it like we do on the race car, Aeroquip hoses, he going with custom race seat and a trick aluminum fabricated dash with all Autometer guages, brake upgrades, suspension upgrade, 5 speed tranny, the list go on an on. Anyway he allowed me a very nice engine budget, so I somewhat thrilled I get to do what is going to be a real serious 1275 street motor, Winner circle oil pan, ARP fastners thru out, ported head, trick valves and springs, roller rockers, vernier timing gear set, balancing etc., etc.
So it looks to be a fun project, and I plan on keeping you guys informed along the way of the build, it is sheduled for fall/winter at the shop.