-
Hi Guest!
If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
Convertible Tops
- Thread starter shorn
- Start date
Share this page
sunkissedhealey
Senior Member
Offline
I've purchased a few items from britboy on ebay a couple of times. The chrome pieces & water transfer decals were of poor quality. I called him and explained why I was displeased with the items. He took them back and credited my account. However, I have no experience with a convertible top from him.
Rob
Rob
I just had one installed. I bought it back in January but just got to getting it installed. I'm a little disappointed in it. Appears the window zipper is slightly off and a bulge appears on the window, like a ripple on the left side. On the lower side just to the rear of the rain flap the material is bunched up. The lower stitch needed to be better placed instead of trailing off. When you pinch the seem together the top lays nice and flat but gets rippled when you let go. Driver side worse than the passenger side but both have some sloppyness to them. The top material is very fexible and soft. I'm hoping not too soft for the long run. The seems are stitched but not electric sealed as the top I am replacing was. The installer thought the stitched version was appropriate for the 1967 year since he didn't think they had electric sealing at that time. The old top that was on the car was stiched and electric sealed on top as well. I'm going to see a local seamstress in my town and see if she can hand stitch the point where I pinch the seem to tighten up the sloppiness. If that works then I'm good to go. I'll see what she can do about the zipper as well. Bottom line....you may be better off with a Robbins top. Over all, this one looks good though.
AUSMHLY
Yoda
Offline
I have purchased some items from him. He is not consistent with quality. Don't chance it. Get a Robins top.
I had a professional install a Robins Everflex top.
It seems Robins is the best bet for quality.
The install ended up costing me twice what he originally quoted. Because he needed to make adjustments to the top frame plus some shimming on both sides where it gets bolted to the car.
I had the shop purchase the Robins top and install it. That way he could not say to me, you gave me a top that was not good. If the shop buys the Robins top, they are on the hook for the top too.
Sure they will mark it up. To me, a quality top and fit was more important than lowest price for a top or install.
No way could I have installed the top as perfectly as the top shop did. The install is as important as the top.
Cheers, Roger
I had a professional install a Robins Everflex top.
It seems Robins is the best bet for quality.
The install ended up costing me twice what he originally quoted. Because he needed to make adjustments to the top frame plus some shimming on both sides where it gets bolted to the car.
I had the shop purchase the Robins top and install it. That way he could not say to me, you gave me a top that was not good. If the shop buys the Robins top, they are on the hook for the top too.
Sure they will mark it up. To me, a quality top and fit was more important than lowest price for a top or install.
No way could I have installed the top as perfectly as the top shop did. The install is as important as the top.
Cheers, Roger
anthony7777
Yoda
Offline
keoke, you be right, last summer o.e.m for my bj7 in original box and wrapping, $115.00 even though i went to pick it up they tied to charge me $20.00 for shipping, yah you know, you know, shg he know too, love it when that happens. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gifKeoke said:
Hi...does any one have any ideas as to the adjustment necessary to get the wood over the door windows to line up with the curved wood to the rear of the windows as in Rogers pic? My forward piece is about 1/2" lower on both sides of the car. I think if the top frame is shifted back slightly at the wheel well mounting point enough forward travel will be available for the top to raise the other 1'2" needed. I don't see any damages to the top's frame nor do I see any adjustment points other than the mounting bolts. Thanks, Joe
Joe,
With the old top removed and before installing the new top, I had removed my top frame for painting although ended up powder coating it. Upon reinstallation of the frame, I moved the frame back while the 3 bolts and nuts on each side were still loose. Although there is not a lot of adjustment there, it helped align those wood strips. My observation was that they were either out of alignment by about the 1/2 inch you mention or in alignment, sort popping into place. It is difficult to get to those bolts with the rear interior panels in place. I will try to post a picture of the new top, but the one I just tried had to large a file.
With the old top removed and before installing the new top, I had removed my top frame for painting although ended up powder coating it. Upon reinstallation of the frame, I moved the frame back while the 3 bolts and nuts on each side were still loose. Although there is not a lot of adjustment there, it helped align those wood strips. My observation was that they were either out of alignment by about the 1/2 inch you mention or in alignment, sort popping into place. It is difficult to get to those bolts with the rear interior panels in place. I will try to post a picture of the new top, but the one I just tried had to large a file.
John Loftus
Darth Vader
Offline
Joe,
The factory put aluminium (just love the English spelling/pronunciation of that) spacers between the hood frame and the body (under the mounting plates). Sometimes these spacers are left out during a restoration. I was able to adjust the number and placement of the spacers to affect the alignment of the wood pieces. The spacers force the curved piece up and close the gap of the top piece.
Here is another thread that shows the spacers/shims
top install
The factory put aluminium (just love the English spelling/pronunciation of that) spacers between the hood frame and the body (under the mounting plates). Sometimes these spacers are left out during a restoration. I was able to adjust the number and placement of the spacers to affect the alignment of the wood pieces. The spacers force the curved piece up and close the gap of the top piece.
Here is another thread that shows the spacers/shims
top install
Thank you all for these great replies. I saw the shims you're talking about at a car show today. Parked next to me was an identical Healey. Upon checking out his top mounts I saw the aluminum spacers sticking out. Mine has no spacers in it but it will very shortly. I guess I'll start very thin and keep increasing until the desired effect is achieved. I have some very thin aluminum stock that should be perfect for the job. Thanks again, Joe