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TR2/3/3A Convertible Top installation instructions

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Hey Jerry,

The flap is meant to fold back forward under the front edge of the top, as a seal. You have to punch holes through it for the windscreen pegs. That said, the buttons don't latch very well through the extra thickness of the flap, so a lot of guys just leave it back, inside the cockpit. I found it works fine once I made the holes plenty oversized, so they don't interfere with the tenax buttons.

As far as instructions, I am sure someone has a copy to pass along. The only advice I have is to start at the center of the car and work outward one tenax/lift the dot at a time, alternating sides. Pull very tight outward as you go, as they do not allow any extra material, so every stretch helps!
 
Jerry
I have the sun fast top and I stuff the flap back to where it should go. John is right about the tenax fasteners, with the flap where it is supposed to go the tenax do not snap in place ( I will try making the holes bigger). I. Almost Cut the flap off, but I just could not do it. John is right start from the middle and work your way out. And do it in the sun the canvas will stretch.
 
Jerry I wish I could offer some advice, I'm just starting my install right now.
 
Well hurry up Keith, I many not finish this till Monday or Tuesday! I must say that I like the material, I hope the sidescreens fit well.

Jerry
 
Jerry I'm sure mine won't be done until maybe next weekend. I went with the Everflex material. The Sunfast is very nice material and looks great, it's also the hardest to work with because of it's thickness, good luck.
 
I always found it very funny that this flap was part of a top that could leak gallons of water in
a fog!!! Of all the details to pay attention to !!What a farce! If that padded edge had been on the side
where it might have sealed the curtian it could have been usefull......
MD(mad dog)
 
How big did you make the hole in the flap? IE: as large as the washer on the back of the snap? I hope not that big as I don't have a hole punch that large. But I can see how that would make it easier to fasten to the windshield.

jerry
 
Just large enough to fit over the windscreen peg...the whole peg, that is. Maybe just a bit larger in case your hole is not perfectly centered on the tenax.

And oh yeah, I don't know if you have heard about installing the lift a dot fasteners sideways. It reall makes installation and removal a lot easier.
 
I wanted to bring up this old topic to see what other people have done in fitting the convertible top. The top is on now and looks pretty good but that extra flap over the windshield is a pain. I can get it to snap onto the windshield studs, but I have to push so hard, I am afraid I will break the windshield. So back to the question above, how BIG are the holes in the extra flap that allows you to put the windshield tenax in place easily? I just keep making them larger, and now I think they have to be as large as the metal backing piece to the tenax.

Jerry
 
Jerry said:
I wanted to bring up this old topic to see what other people have done in fitting the convertible top. The top is on now and looks pretty good but that extra flap over the windshield is a pain. I can get it to snap onto the windshield studs, but I have to push so hard, I am afraid I will break the windshield. So back to the question above, how BIG are the holes in the extra flap that allows you to put the windshield tenax in place easily? I just keep making them larger, and now I think they have to be as large as the metal backing piece to the tenax.

Jerry
Click to expand...

Jerry-

Here are some pics on what I did with the flap on my Robbins top. I made the flap holes slightly larger and elliptical to help with installation. Some tenax do take a little wiggling to make sure they seat, but I don't have to pound on them and they will all snap.

20121207_075552.jpg

20121207_075547.jpg

20121007_170247.jpg
 
Thanks, I will try that. Not like you can see the extra flap anyway. Or that I will purposely drive in the rain.

Jerry
 
Pictures are great and the whole process is making more sense now. What I still don't understand is why the MFG went to the trouble of making the double thickness flat spots just so we have to punch in large holes to have the pegs fit ?.................
What am I missing here?

Nice job Jerry it looks great!

Thanks, Dick
 
I wondered why I didn't have this problem with my top - it is probably a Robbins* which I installed around 1983.

So I looked and I see that on mine that flap is quite different -- pretty thin (not padded) where the Tenax's mount but with a thick cord inside the back edge making it about ÂĽ" thick along there. It certainly seals well along the top of the windscreen.

All this raises the question of what the originals were like.

*Edit - The top with a cord in it was an Amco top.
 
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I just came across this thread, and was quite surprised. The PO had installed my Robbins top, and I was wondering why it was so hard to get the snaps hooked. I guess now I know. Here are a couple pictures of my snaps. Now my question is do I leave it as is, or redo it the suggested way. My other thought was to put a flat washer under the pegs to make them stick out a little farther. What do you guys think.
Garytop-1-web.jpgtop-2-web.jpg
 
It should work just like it is...in fact it looks easier. No need to fold the seal over every time.
 
CJD said:
It should work just like it is...in fact it looks easier. No need to fold the seal over every time.
Click to expand...

I originally did it that way with my top, but had a heck of a time getting the fasteners to close. Did it the recommended way, and it was easier, but still not great. I'm ready to cut the darn thing off.
 
As to how they were back in the 50's, I still have bits of my original top. All along the top of the convertible top, there was a sewn-in rubber seal (hollow like on the rear door post trims. This rubber seal was about 1/2 inch on the outside diameter and was covered with tan coloured velvet. After 12 years, the rubber had split and the velvet cover (glued-on) allowed the rain to come in over the top of the windscreen.

In 1987, I bought a new top from Roadster Factory and it came with the flap. I punched 1/2" diameter holes in line with the Tenax fasteners and use this when the top is up. But I only use the TR3A in the summer and mostly in good to sunny weather. I have driven my TR 194200 miles since 1990 and have had the top up for only about 4000 miles.

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A TS 27489 LO
 

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parkerg1 said:
I just came across this thread, and was quite surprised. The PO had installed my Robbins top, and I was wondering why it was so hard to get the snaps hooked. I guess now I know. Here are a couple pictures of my snaps. Now my question is do I leave it as is, or redo it the suggested way. My other thought was to put a flat washer under the pegs to make them stick out a little farther. What do you guys think.
GaryView attachment 47923View attachment 47924
Click to expand...
Well so much for my idea of putting a washer under the peg to make it stick out a little farther. I took one off today, and the stud inserts from the inside, and uses a nut on the outside.
 
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