connection at water temp gauge

[19_again]

Had to destroy engine end of temp cable when pulling engine, necessitating replacement and connection at gauge is tight as well. Is the cable held in place by the two screws at bottom of gauge case? It's the '67 B.
Mike

 

[David_DuBois]

That is not an electrical wire, it is a capillary tube that carries a working fluid from the sensor to the gage You will either need to get a new gage or send the existing gage, capillary tube and sensor bulb to someplace like APT instruments https://www.gaugeguys.com/ for repair.
Cheers,

 

[19_again]

Thanks Dave,
I knew it wasn't elec, but thought it had an end similar to the sensor at the block. Those two screws are directly in line with the end of the tube, and thought a simple fix was an option. HAHAHAHAHAHA.

 

[DrEntropy]

Hafta "thread" the whole thing from the dash opening thru the firewall to the t'stat housing. It's one piece from gauge to bulb.

I suggest Nisonger as the rebuilders. Not cheap, but it'll WORK in the end.

 

[bgbassplyr]

And don't crimp the tube while you thread it through. Plan the route before installation. Make a loop in the tube so that vibration/engine movement doesn't fracture it. Strap it to other soild points such as heater pipe, gas line, or whatever is available.

Jim

 

[martx-5]

If you're a little bit handy, you can repair these capillary temp gauges folllowing the instructions here. I've repaired several this way including the one in my TR3.

 

[19_again]

The problem is that the nut had to be severely molested using a plumber's wrench after failing to yield to Heat, PBB, Freeze-Off and prayer. But the unit itself is fine. At this point the plan is to grind it back to a two sided shape that will work with a wrench and risk the concourse judge's ire. If that left eyebrow goes up more than a quarter of an inch, I hear I'd lose 32 points. I'd be devastated.

 

[DrEntropy]

Fuss it to a shape you can get a wrench onto and use anti-seize liberally!

...and poo on th' judges. :smirk: