Cold weather starting

[MadRiver]

Quick question for the collective. I had to start up some of the cars yesterday to move them around a bit to make room for some workmen. It was about 28 degrees or so both inside and out (the workmen are putting the final touches on the garage's heating system). The Triumph and MG both started on the first try. I pulled the choke out, turned the key, the engine turned over a couple of times, and each car roared to life. Not so with the newly-acquired Healey. I know I have fuel, and the car does catch, huffs and puffs a bunch, and then stalls. I'm going to pull the plugs and make sure that they're fine, and I'm going to put new fuel in the tank (the PO had the car in winter storage, and it hadn't run in several months). Beyond that, some wisdom would be appreciated!

Thanks!

B.

 

[Rick G]

Dear Mad.....I have the same problem with my Mark I in the cold. In fact, the day I had to meet the truck to off load it from it's previous FL home, it let me sit for 7 hours in a sleet and snow storm until I could get it started. The solution is a little spray of starter fluid in each carb. It wll turn right over. Adjusting the choke so you can pull it out as far as possible has also helped, but it still takes quite a few tries in cold weather to get the beast going. Hope this helps.

 

[Healey 100]

Mad:

Healeys should start well in cold weather and not need starting fluid. The trick is making sure the enrichment levers are pulled up completely when the choke is pulled. Often, they are not. When the levers are up, you should be able to see the main jet drop at least a quarter inch, that's how the mixture in enriched. The crude cable linkages used to pull these levers if often stretched or out of adjustment.

You can test the theory by pulling up the enrichment levers on the SU's by hand while someone else starts the engine. They start best without any throttle opening and pumping the gas is nothing more than foot excercise -- there are no accelerator pumps on your Healey.

My experience is mainly with 4 cylinder Healeys, but I think the carb setup is similar for the 6's.

Good luck!

 

[Ed Kaler]

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif TOTALLY, Healey100!!!

Linkage MUST be correctly set-up. Me and Hortense have been caught OUT-OF-TOWN (@1000 miles) in close to degree weather and she started NO problem /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif !!

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

Ed

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

I had to drive my car everyday to work back in the early 1970's and had the same starting problem descibed. I finally figured out that you must pull the choke enrichment levers up and then you can start it. It didn't take me long to figure out that the levers were at their full travel and pulling the choke knob out only made them move a little bit. Adjust them up like Rick G says and that will take care of the problem.

Also, my BJ8 choke cables seemed to stick "open" most of the time. I removed the cables, cleaned them and put graphite on them and that took car of that problem with the chokes returning to "off". I also used a spring from a ballpoint pen to assist them in doing that. My car's carbs came with springs installed to help the choke levers return to "off", but it was too darn hard to pull out the choke.

I went to a Dealer to buy the carb return springs and gas pedal rubber pad. I believe that to this day the parts counter guy is still cussing the parts manuals.

 

[MadRiver]

Thanks gents!

Quick question on adjusting the choke cables. Is it best to do it at the enrichment levers, or on the bracket mounted on the firewall where the two cables come together? Seems easier to do the latter.

Thanks!

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Thanks gents!

Quick question on adjusting the choke cables. Is it best to do it at the enrichment levers, or on the bracket mounted on the firewall where the two cables come together? Seems easier to do the latter.

Thanks!

Do it at the enrichment levers. You'll have some excess cable hanging down but that's normal. Be sure that your choke cables, carb linkage, etc. moves freely. Lubricate it with 3-in One oil(not WD-40).
Patrick

 

[tahoe healey]

Actually sewing machnine oil is better than 3 in 1 because it conains no pariphins (sp?) which hold dirt and cause future problems with gumming up.

 

[vette]

Hi Mad, All apologess to former suggestions, but Starting Fluid should be called, Destruction Fluid. If you ever want your engine to race, hammer and knock like the dickens spray a few squirts of that stuff into it. Adjust the choke, keep the battery strong.

 

[nevets]

I posted a similar question some time ago, and someone wise suggested that I pull/push the choke cable in/out several times before starting. It seems to work.

 

[bob hughes]

I too suffer from the same problem, I will check my chokes, but innitially put it down to me playing with the plug gaps, I have opened them up to 30 thou with a sports coil. After about 5 goes she finally catches and after some low reving we are away. My wife hates the noise though.

Bob

 

[CRS]

I've used starting fluid for all cold starts with my BJ8, summer & winter, for years with no problems.

 

[BUNDYRUM]

I used to have trouble with my BN7 even here in CA (where it doesn't really get cold).

Depending on how originality minded you are will depend on whether you do this.

I fitted a Lumenition electronic ignition as well as a MSD 6A amplifier and it's never had any trouble yet. It will start without the choke (or enrichment device) and idle at 800 RPM without any fuss (yes I do let it warm up).

Why the Lumenition ? because there were no other ones on the market over here when I did it. And also because it bolts right in where the points used to be.

bundyrum