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Cold starts?
- Thread starter kodanja
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CinneaghTR
Jedi Warrior
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That is about the same for me. Sometimes, I even get to get out and drive!
OP
kodanja
Obi Wan
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<span style="font-weight: bold">the steam engine is in Essex Ct </span>
(so you recommend a constant trickle charge in the winter?)
It hard for me to get out and drive because of the snow and salt on the roads, so I usually let it idel till the temp gauge get warm...
I did change the antifreeze & oil prior to the cold weather, the battery seems to hold a good charge from week to week....
(so you recommend a constant trickle charge in the winter?)
It hard for me to get out and drive because of the snow and salt on the roads, so I usually let it idel till the temp gauge get warm...
I did change the antifreeze & oil prior to the cold weather, the battery seems to hold a good charge from week to week....
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I tend to agree with you, Randall, as it's good to "warm up" more than just the engine. IF road conditions permit, I will warm the Herald once a month or so during winter and then go for a drive. Otherwise, I admit that I do start the car and let the engine thoroughly warm up!
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It's certainly easier on the starter motor! :wink:
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Well, where I live now we don't really have "winter" per se; it's more of something I can go visit when I choose. So you can factor that into what my opinion is worth
But starting the engine and letting it idle doesn't get the oil warm enough to boil off water and contaminants that are put there by starting the engine from cold. The result can be excess sludge and varnish in the crankcase, etc.
So if you know for sure that you can't drive the car for more than say, 3 months, IMO it's better to coat the cylinders walls with oil, drain the float bowls, and let it sit. I have stored other kinds of motors this way (outboard motors, chainsaws, lawnmowers, etc.) and it seems to work well.
But if there is a chance you can drive it, then Andy's method is probably as good as anything.
But starting the engine and letting it idle doesn't get the oil warm enough to boil off water and contaminants that are put there by starting the engine from cold. The result can be excess sludge and varnish in the crankcase, etc.
So if you know for sure that you can't drive the car for more than say, 3 months, IMO it's better to coat the cylinders walls with oil, drain the float bowls, and let it sit. I have stored other kinds of motors this way (outboard motors, chainsaws, lawnmowers, etc.) and it seems to work well.
But if there is a chance you can drive it, then Andy's method is probably as good as anything.
You can come visit us in central PA and see live steam engines, and I'll even show you around the shop.
www.strasburgrailroad.com
www.strasburgrailroad.com
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kodanja
Obi Wan
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I really hate to get all that salt on it, the roads wont be clean agin around here till mid march or so....
it seems to start right up.
I did have to spray a little starting fluid into the carbs one time to get it going but once I pumped the fuel pump a couple times I had no problem.
as you all know I'm not a Pureist when it comes to my TR6...(far from original)
it seems to start right up.
I did have to spray a little starting fluid into the carbs one time to get it going but once I pumped the fuel pump a couple times I had no problem.
as you all know I'm not a Pureist when it comes to my TR6...(far from original)
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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What oil do you use, and how cold is the engine? If you are getting close to the pour point of your oil (say within 20F), then a heater is almost a requirement. Some of those old diesels used straight-weight oils with pour points not much below 0F.kodanja said:
But if you're using a modern "multi-grade" synthetic, then I doubt a heater would be much benefit. The Synpower 20W50 I use has a pour point of almost -40F, so not likely to be a problem.
