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Cold start problems

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mgtf328

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I have a problem starting my BJ8 after it's been sitting idle for a week or so when the weather's cold. I engage full choke and wait for the pump to stop 'chattering' but find I have to crank it a zillion times before it fires up and then end up having to charge a flat battery. Once started I have no further problems and it starts on the button as soon as the pump stops chattering, even after a day or so sitting idle. The spark seems ok, electronic ignition, so any suggestions as to what to look for would be appreciated.
Thanks
AJ :grumpy:
 
Its too lean .
 
The choke cable is probably not pulling the jets all the way down. Pull the choke cable all the way out and look at the position of the jets on the bottom of the carburetors. Then disconnect the choke cable from the linkage and manually move the linkage to see how far the jets can actually move down. You may want to lightly oil the linkage and/or move the position that the linkage attaches to the cable to get the full movement.
Keith
 
Also check fuel level in float bowls/jet bridge.
 
There is a rod that goes vertically through the carb body (#52 on the Moss diagram). It tends to corrode and stick. Make sure it's free. otherwise the jets won't go down.
 
I agree with all the above but in addition, pulling the choke causes a faster idle so if you step down on the throttle when pulling the choke it takes some of the load off the cable & carb linkages, making is easier to get full drop of the jets.
 
Reminds me of when I worked at Austin Healey West, in San Francisco; we'd pull all the cars in off the street at night, and then have to move them the next day to have more room to work. Even though SF doesn't get that cold (avg 60* year 'round) and they'd been run the night before, we'd still have to give most of them a shot of starting fluid to get them to light right off.

By the time we moved 6, 8 or 12 cars, your head would be a little light from all the ether! :angel2:
 
Randy--

The spray orifice is supposed to face AWAY from the user.

Some cars seem to be hard starters despite usual measures. My Healey is not one of them but the Elva Courier (MGA 1622 engine) is and earlier today I had to give it a shot to fire it up--once the engine lights up it is fine for the rest of the day.
 
Those who use started fluid-ever have an engine start backwards? Have had it happen once or twice, why I don't use fluid.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I have taken the cables off and cleaned/greased them. The rod in the carb body is free although the cam at the bottom is a bit rough, I greased them. I think the jets move through their full range now but will take the 'bells' off the carbs to check later this week. I have played around with the springs as the back spring seems stronger than the front and the force to pull the choke out isn't even between the two cables causing the little rod that ties them together on the bulkhead to become skewed when the choke is pulled out. I liked the idea of using starting fluid until I read the last post suggesting the engine might start backwards! Is this really possible? I have pancake type filters, which one would I squirt the stuff into to minimise the chance of this happening?
Thanks AJ
 
I agree on all the suggestions above, but I also would like to bring the condition of the ignition points to your attention. A point gap out of adjustment or pitted points does not help starting an engine.
 
...nor for that matter does a weak battery or starter, but if the car restarts readily once having fired off, it is usually fuel-related.
 
AJ,

i have the the same problem with my BJ8.

Itā€™s parked up over winter and when I come round to itā€™s first start up in spring, it takes an age to start. As you say, once itā€™s started, it fires first time from then on as long as itā€™s used regularly.

I put it down to the winter damp and cold.
 
The problem you are describing is because you have too lean a fuel mixture. On BJ8 carbs, the manual says to set float levels at 7/16ths, reset them at 5/16ths which will raise the fuel level in the float bowls. Next check to see if jet needles are located properly and make sure they are both set at same height, with the slides out look down into the jet orfis. Look at the fuel level , it should be 1/8 to 3/16th of an inch off the bridge of the carb body where the jet fits. The jet should be 1/16th of an inch from the carb body. I just finished doing a car that would not start in 60 degree weather after I did this fix the owner said he started the car no problem in -30 c. I have done this to many cars with complete success. Then tune carbs accordingly.
 
Frameman said:
The problem you are describing is because you have too lean a fuel mixture. On BJ8 carbs, the manual says to set float levels at 7/16ths, reset them at 5/16ths which will raise the fuel level in the float bowls. Next check to see if jet needles are located properly and make sure they are both set at same height, with the slides out look down into the jet orfis. Look at the fuel level , it should be 1/8 to 3/16th of an inch off the bridge of the carb body where the jet fits. The jet should be 1/16th of an inch from the carb body. I just finished doing a car that would not start in 60 degree weather after I did this fix the owner said he started the car no problem in -30 c. I have done this to many cars with complete success. Then tune carbs accordingly.
Click to expand...

Great summary, Martin (IIRC) -

By "tune accordingly" you're referring to syncing them, correct?
Higher float level - is that because of modern fuels having ethanol and not containing the calories of 100% gasoline?
 
Michael Oritt said:
Randy--

The spray orifice is supposed to face AWAY from the user.

Some cars seem to be hard starters despite usual measures. My Healey is not one of them but the Elva Courier (MGA 1622 engine) is and earlier today I had to give it a shot to fire it up--once the engine lights up it is fine for the rest of the day.
Click to expand...
Well, what can I say? It was San Francisco in the 1970s, and there was a lot of misinformation in those days__product labeling and consumer awareness was still it its infancy.

It seemed to have the greatest affect on our secretary though; she'd walk in from the crisp morning air into a cloud of ether. You really didn't want to ask here for any meaningful information until about 10:30...

CaptRandy said:
Those who use started fluid-ever have an engine start backwards? Have had it happen once or twice, why I don't use fluid.
Click to expand...
First I've ever heard of it. It certainly never happened in any of the hundreds of times I've used it (considering the number of cars we'd move 5, sometimes 6 days/wk, that's an underestimation). I just can't see how that would happen, considering the timing of events would suggest the fuel would have to be sucked in from the exhaust (as opposed to how early emission-controlled engines were capable of running on, due to lean burn/hot surfaces in the combustion chamber).

Frameman said:
The problem you are describing is because you have too lean a fuel mixture. On BJ8 carbs, the manual says to set float levels at 7/16ths, reset them at 5/16ths which will raise the fuel level in the float bowls. Next check to see if jet needles are located properly and make sure they are both set at same height, with the slides out look down into the jet orfis. Look at the fuel level , it should be 1/8 to 3/16th of an inch off the bridge of the carb body where the jet fits. The jet should be 1/16th of an inch from the carb body. I just finished doing a car that would not start in 60 degree weather after I did this fix the owner said he started the car no problem in -30 c. I have done this to many cars with complete success. Then tune carbs accordingly.
Click to expand...
I did not know that was such a blanket issue with the BJ8s; I've never owned one, but I have tuned up more than my share of them. My concern was to always make sure the levels in all float chambers was at the same height, rather than to achieve the exact value printed in the book.

Thanks, and I hope I remember this the next time I'm confronted with a pair/trio of HD8s!
 
Thanks for the reply, very helpful. I notice that the manual indicates that MkII Healeys should have the floats set at 5/16" and the MkIII's at 7/16", confusing! Mine is a BJ8.
Before I change anything I will check to see where the fuel level is looking down the jets. If it sits between 1/8" and 3/16" then presumably there is no reason to adjust the floats. Correct?
AJ
 
I agree with all the advice regarding choke and carb set up. I did all of that on mine but still it wasnā€™t a great first starter on cold days until I replaced the coil for a ā€˜sportsā€™ version, now it starts first turn of the key. I suspect the old one was rather tired as I did nothing else that might have affected it.
Steve
 
mgtf328 said:
Thanks for the reply, very helpful. I notice that the manual indicates that MkII Healeys should have the floats set at 5/16" and the MkIII's at 7/16", confusing! Mine is a BJ8.
Before I change anything I will check to see where the fuel level is looking down the jets. If it sits between 1/8" and 3/16" then presumably there is no reason to adjust the floats. Correct?
AJ
Click to expand...

The manual sec D.8 states 7/16" for the HD6; sec DDD.12 says the spec is the same for the HD8.

DDD.6 says 5/16" for triple HS4; DDD.9 says 1/8" for dual HS6 with nylon floats.

Frameman - is there a reference or source on setting the HD8 to 5/16". Enquiring minds want to know.
 
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