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Getting ready to stab my motor (like I thought was going to happen 6 mo.ago)and am trying to figure what clutch to go with. I know there has been problems with one of the brands--which one and what was the problem ? I have the Conversion Components-Supra conversion and it comes with a Toyota (splined)clutch disc and a Borg and Beck pressure plate to go with it, but I dont want to run the B+B if that is the bad one.?????
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TR6 Clutches revisited--which one? [TR6]
- Thread starter ALLAN
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Harry_Ward
Jedi Knight
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ALLAN,
Hope this link works I believe it is part of another post but I can't find it. Seemed the throw out bearing to clutch plate fingers in Brosky's car seemed to have problem. If link doesn't work try a search using his username. Or wait for Paul to read this and I'm sure he will let you know.
https://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthread...true#Post255793
Hope this link works I believe it is part of another post but I can't find it. Seemed the throw out bearing to clutch plate fingers in Brosky's car seemed to have problem. If link doesn't work try a search using his username. Or wait for Paul to read this and I'm sure he will let you know.
https://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthread...true#Post255793
Brosky
Great Pumpkin
Offline
Here's the pics and story:
https://www.74tr6.com/clutchreplacement.htm
I'm very happy with the TRF Magic Clutch Kit, using the Koyo bearing.
https://www.74tr6.com/clutchreplacement.htm
I'm very happy with the TRF Magic Clutch Kit, using the Koyo bearing.
Thanks Harry and Paul, with the thread you gave me I ended up at www.mntriumphs.org and this site had a indepth article by a couple of engineer types (17 pages). here was the bottom line----1.The new aftermarket Borg and Becks have too much tension (pressure) causing early failer of all clutch components. -- A rebuilt original design Borg and Beck is good but hard to find. 2. The Sachs (in the magic clutch kit) also has alot of pressure but better than the new Borg and Becks. 3. Dont use the Gunst thro out bearing.--There was also mention of a bellhousing alignment problem that magnifies the problems created by the higher tension Borg and Beck pressure plate which in turn caused early clutch failer. The 17 pages was a must read, very interesting.
Keoke
Great Pumpkin
Offline
[ QUOTE ]
I have to go with what was in the kit, I think it is a Toyota bearing, but I want to change pressure plates if B+B isnt the good way to go. I know Laycock is the other choice but I know one of them has had problems.
[/ QUOTE ]
Hi Allan, I went thru Pauls clutch replacement bit. I believe if you want maximum life from your clutch you will use the same throw out bearing he did. It is imperative with this type pressure plate design that the bearing stand proud of its housing and present a minimum of contact area when engaged with the pressure plate. Additionally IMOP it does not make any difference from a design standpoint which pressure plate you use. The problem is that the throw out bearing has to ride directly on the spring fingers which can eat the bearing alive. But increasing the force to actuate the clutch will reflect in more bearing wear.--Fwiw--Keoke
I have to go with what was in the kit, I think it is a Toyota bearing, but I want to change pressure plates if B+B isnt the good way to go. I know Laycock is the other choice but I know one of them has had problems.
[/ QUOTE ]
Hi Allan, I went thru Pauls clutch replacement bit. I believe if you want maximum life from your clutch you will use the same throw out bearing he did. It is imperative with this type pressure plate design that the bearing stand proud of its housing and present a minimum of contact area when engaged with the pressure plate. Additionally IMOP it does not make any difference from a design standpoint which pressure plate you use. The problem is that the throw out bearing has to ride directly on the spring fingers which can eat the bearing alive. But increasing the force to actuate the clutch will reflect in more bearing wear.--Fwiw--Keoke
BritBox
Jedi Hopeful
Offline
Hi ALLAN,
I'm using the Koyo bearing, Sachs pressure plate, and B&B friction disc along with my rebuilt TR250 gearbox. The combo has worked pretty well for the last five years, but I have always heard what seemed to me a lot of "whirring" noise from that area when the car is in neutral. That sound is typical of a bad or failing countershaft, which I guess is possible if I screwed up the rebuild, but I understand it could also be my T/O bearing being grated like cheese on the pressure plate fingers. I guess I'll know for sure when it decides to fail more conclusively. There's a re-bearinged(?) motor sitting on a stand in the garage; I hope to get it finished and pull the old drivetrain out before more serious damage occurs to my clutch or gearbox--whichever!
Hope you find what you need,
I'm using the Koyo bearing, Sachs pressure plate, and B&B friction disc along with my rebuilt TR250 gearbox. The combo has worked pretty well for the last five years, but I have always heard what seemed to me a lot of "whirring" noise from that area when the car is in neutral. That sound is typical of a bad or failing countershaft, which I guess is possible if I screwed up the rebuild, but I understand it could also be my T/O bearing being grated like cheese on the pressure plate fingers. I guess I'll know for sure when it decides to fail more conclusively. There's a re-bearinged(?) motor sitting on a stand in the garage; I hope to get it finished and pull the old drivetrain out before more serious damage occurs to my clutch or gearbox--whichever!
Hope you find what you need,
Sachs looks like the one to go with, with the Toyota bearing this should be pretty much be like the Magic Kit. I found a Sachs pressure plate at www.partsandaccessories.com for $72- free shipping.----British Parts Northwest sells the equivilent of the Roadster Factory Magic Clutch Kit for over $100 less!!!