clutch

[neophyte]

When I push the clutch down on my 1958 AH 100-6 BN6 the engine slows down. I haven't yet gotten into the clutch. Does anyone have any idea what might be wrong?
Thanks,

 

[MarkA]

There have been numerous threads on this subject. One of the more recent with many replies can be read here:

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=1&Number=350022

This seems to be more of a trait of these cars than a problem. Correct tuning of the engine will minimize this condition the most. A hot engine will exhibit this problem more than a cold engine. If the problem is related to a bad T/O bearing, then you would have some strange noises when using the clutch.

Mark

 

[vette]

Neo, I agree with Mark. Ever since I was a youngin messing with MGs, this has been characteristic of not only the LBCs but mostly of all cars. Unless you are dealing with a big block , big displacement engine then it might not be so noticeable. back in the old days if you had an engine that just was poorly tuned or had issues with the idle and run on after shutting it off, we would just depress the clutch just before turning off the ignition to keep the engine from running on or what we called dieseling. The drag on the throwout bearing was enough to stop the engine. An engine in good order and a good state of tune would minimise this run-on situation, but the drag on the clutch bearing was always handy sometimes.
Dave C.

 

[Keoke]

Well I feel that a properly tuned BJ8 engine should not stop when the clutch is pushed in. Similarly, Engine run on is usually due to improper tuning or excessive carbon build up in the cylinders. The method I see used most often to correct this potentially engine damaging characteristic is; Place the gear lever in third gear and gently let out the clutch while simultaneously shutting the ignition off.--Fwiw--Keoke

 

[DART]

Yup, common to a lot of LBC's. I have found the clutch-in drag noticeable when starting, so I always use the parking brake and start in neutral with clutch out. Same thing on both SP's, so expect it is the nature of the beast.

 

[Keoke]

Hi Dart, thats prolly cuz they use that lousy triumph clutch with out a bearing pad for the throw out bearing. The bearing rides directly on the fingers of the clutch. But you can install a late BJ8 clutch assy in them and solve the problem. OTOH, it may be some of that Plasticy dripped down on the clutch.---Keoke-- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif

 

[vette]

Keoke, I might mention that "MOST" engines do stop when you turn off the key. Even a BJ8. But if it doesn't because you don't know how to tune it, then depressing the clutch will help slow it down.

 

[DART]

Yes, that's it...the plasticy stuff dripping. Everything else drips, why not that.

I think the solution is the Celica 5-speed conversion. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbsup.gif

 

[Keoke]

Keoke, I might mention that "MOST" engines do stop when you turn off the key. Even a BJ8. But if it doesn't because you don't know how to tune it, then depressing the clutch will help slow it down.

Sorry bout that but I disagree.-----Keoke-- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif

 

[Keoke]

Yes, that's it...the plasticy stuff dripping. Everything else drips, why not that.

I think the solution is the Celica 5-speed conversion. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbsup.gif

Yep, that is a good upgrade. No OVD to add heat or cause problems. Go to; "Toyota W Transmissions" on Wikipeda and you can get all the model numbers and gear ratios for those boxes.---Keoke-AZ- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cowboy.gif

 

[DART]

good source, thanks.