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clutch travel

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bigmc

Freshman Member
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weather is pretty - time to work on the tr6. last year ended with clutch problem - with full pedal depression, it would just barely release enough to shift. since i've had this car, you have to push the pedal nearly to the floor to shift. not right, but i put off fixing it until it became unworkable. i put on a new master cylinder and replaced the hydraulic hose and bled the system. slave is in the middle hole of the operating shaft arm. it shifts now but you still have to put the pedal to the floor. i need some advice on how to adjust the clutch pedal travel. moving the slave to the top hole seems needed but it doesn't look like it will fix it enough. how about spacing the slave cylinder ****her toward the rear? does this indicate bigger problems with the clutch? is there some inherent problem bleeding the system that leaves air trapped?

thanks for the advice!
 
Using the lower hole on the lever or shimming the slave cylinder are not long term fixes. There are a few things that could be going on:

1. The pin securing the fork to the cross-shaft has sheared or is about to.
2. The release bearing has deeply scored the pressure plate's fingers.
3. The 2 fork pins pressing against the bearing carrier are heaviliy worn.
4. Your crank endfloat is excessive (i.e., greater than 0.010 inches). Does your idle go down when the clutch is depressed?

Rick O.
72 TR6
 
idle is constant. i certainly agree about shims not being long term fixes. however, since it only sees about 100 miles a year, short term fixes might last me a long time. on the other hand, this is a hobby and fixin' is fun (sort of). the most puzzling thing to me is that although the clutch pedal has had a lot of travel since i bought the car, it went from long travel being enough to shift ok, to going all the way to the floor and still grinding gears over the course of about 20 miles traveled over a period of a few weeks. seems to have been consistently not good and fairly suddenly becoming unworkable.
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Rick O.:
1. The pin securing the fork to the cross-shaft has sheared or is about to.<hr></blockquote>

I think there is a reason why Rick listed this #1. You might take a look at the Buckeye site for clutch info in general and the broken pin procedure in particular:

https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm
 
Bingo! Since the symptoms appeared rather suddenly, it is highly likely that the fork pin is now in 2 pieces. I wouldn't drive it until you R&R the gearbox and investigate.

Rick O.
 
I ren into a similar problem with my TR-7 Spider. Every guru told me the problem had to be hydraulic. I replaced everything twice, master and slave cylinders, bought a braided clutch line, bled through quarts of Castrol LMA, and on occasion, it would run for a short time without locking out the shifter. Finally, I had the whole thing disassembled and found a slightly bent clutch fork with a broken tip on one pin. The slight bend has eluded one mechanic experienced with them, too. My clutch, when it would work, would requre full travel and then engage very close to the end of the pedal travel.

Since the repair, the clutch works flawlessly. I think you'll find that's the problem.

Jeff Aronson
Vinalhaven Island, ME 04863
USA
 
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