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T-Series clutch? tranny?

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adam90009

Jedi Warrior
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Well to start off I got my drivers licence monday so now the B gets plenty of driving. With all that driving I've noticed a couple of things. whenever I shift into reverse when completely stoped it grinds before it goes into the gear. and when i was downshifting from 3rd to 2nd, i had the clutch fully in and going about 25-30mph i couldnt get it into 2nd gear when ever i tried it would grind the gears. and also everytime i shift it to 3rd i have to push as hard as i can to get it all the way in the it just pops in. kind of like going over a really steep hill u try and it almost stops right before it gets to the top then once u get over the top it goes just fine. is this something to do with the clutch to tranny or what?? what should I do about it?
 
First thing, adam..check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder....if its low, get some help from your dad....fill it, bleed it at the clutch slave cylinder & look for leaks underneath/around the slave cylinder & also the master cylinder...when you find the leak, you'll probably have to order a rebuild kit for your clutch slave cylinder....
...happy motoring!
 
When you're sitting in the car with the engine shut off, clutch let out, is it still very stiff going into gear?? While you may very well need to fill and bleed, and possibly rebuild the clutch cylinders I wouldn't expect that to make the movement of the shifter feel stiff.
 
congratulations on the new license, my youngest got hers a month ago. use it wisely and it will be a wonderful thing. She and I are going to Tony's Saturday
 
there is plenty of fluid i checked that before i even posted. And it is too dark outside to check for any leaks but ill check tomorrow morning. If you want to stop by decatur(about 30 mins away) I'll be here.
 
we gotta load up a truck load of Tony's parts and scoot. why don't you come over to Gurley and we'll have a look at your clutch
 
i have the same problem in my midget. it grinds when going into gear.
now i KNOW that the clutch master cylinder is bad, and the slave looks pretty rough too. i am currently getting both replaced. i will let you know if it improves with the new stuff
 
well right before i got my car I was told it had just got a new clutch a few weeks before so I dont know how long this has been going on. just really hadnt noticed that i could "pop" it into 3rd. I just got mad that it poped out of 3rd gear and pushed it in really hard and it went in and stayed(the first time it had been all the way in 3rd for years)
 
that's about what I was shooting for Tony, and I may be bringing Jenny, my 16 year old, with me
 
Check your rear engine mounts while your under the car. They can be so bad that the shifter arm hits the tunnel and makes it difficult to get into a particular gear. To check for a leak on the master. Run your hand on the back side of the clutch pedal. If it's wet you have a leak. On the slave snip a hole in the boot. If it's wet you have a leak there. On the Midget look at your pedals. If the clutch is lower than the brake. That could be your problem. Midget clutch pedals are bad to bend after years of use toward the fire wall. To fix it you need to heat the pedal with a torch and pull it back even with the brake.
 
Oh no! 16 year old girl, 16 year old boy - both at my house on Saturday...it'll feel like a regular school day!
 
So, you're gonna make the trip alone!
wink.gif
Just load up lots of Righteous Brothers cassettes - **** shame about Bobby Hatfield's untimely death last night...first the Beatles, then the Righteous Brothers, next? Beach Boys? Our old world is ending!
 
Hello Adam,
Two points, the first and easiest is the idling speed of the engine, too high and it makes engaging first or reverse difficult. An average idle would be about 700 rpm for most British classic cars.
Secondly, some clutches are self adjusting for free play at rest, but not all, worth a check, There should be about 1\16" to 1\8" free play at the slave push rod to actuating lever.
However it sounds as if your synchromesh is weak, quite common really. By driving differently you can compensate for some of the faults you describe. Jumping out of gear is the one you can't compensate for and requires some attention. If you are lucky it may be the body fouling the gearshift as someone suggested, otherwise it is a gearbox defect.
Bearing in mind that it is possible to drive and change gear without using the clutch at all, puts the importance of the clutch into perspective, i.e. not really that high.
To ease the changing process; imagine driving at 40 mph in third and you want to select second. Check the revs in third, say they are 3000, if you select second then the revs when you change will be about 4000 for the speed you are travelling when you change gear.
What I'm getting at is the need to adjust engine speed to the next ratio as you change. If the synchromesh is really bad or as in some cars, does not exist then double de-clutching will, with practise, give silent changes. This procedure means pausing in neutral as you change , let out the clutch, adjust engine speed then push in the clutch and select the new ratio.

Sorry this post has got a bit long, but I hope it is useful.

Alec
cheers.gif
 
Sounds to me like the clutch just isn't disengageing enough. Either a fluid/cylinder problem or maybe throw-out bearing worn.
The coming out of a gear would be different like maybe a bad syncro. I have a bad syncro on my 3rd gear and it pops out of gear when I am de accelerating in that gear.
Bob
 
I have been having the same problem with my 79. I am going to rebuild the master cylinder. I already did the slave cylinder. Does it go into second only when the tach reads about 2000 and you already said you have to really push hard into third. Mine is that way too.
 
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