clutch slave cylinder

[RichW]

Anybody have any tricks to bleeding the clutch slave cylinder on a TR3? RichW

 

[Basil]

You posted your question in the "Forum Navigation Help" forum - that's where you ask questions about navigating in the forum. I am moving this post to the Triumph Forum.

Basil

 

[CJD]

I put a tube on the slave fitting and crack it open. Gravity does the rest.

 

[bobhustead]

Bleeder has to be facing up.
Bob

 

[Redoakboo]

Just finished bleeding the clutch slave cylinder on my 57 TR-3. I have a bleeder jar with a plastic tube and a hole in the top. Put your box end wrench on the bleeder valve, connect the tube, have someone in the car depress the clutch petal to the floor while you open the valve, close the valve, raise the clutch petal. Do this several times until all the air is out of the system, make sure you maintain the fluid level in the resovoir.

Dick

 

[Lukens]

I bleed my clutch slave backwards (from the slave to the master cylinder)

 

[CJD]

I bleed my clutch slave backwards (from the slave to the master cylinder)

With the supply tubing connected to the lower side of the slave cylinder, wouldn’t that leave a bubble in the slave cylinder? If you get rid of the bubble in the slave...then it should work for the master cylinder.

 

[KVH]

I find it best to have a helper, but the one-man rig sold by Griott's is supposedly very good. I own one, and have used it, but quite frankly, I've got nothing to compare to, and I'm uncertain whether it's resulting in the same tight clutch my wife's foot achieved. It almost seems too simple.

 

[Rut]

It seems like the clutch hydraulics are a pita to bleed on every LBC and I started putting remote bleeders on the slave cylinders a few years ago. It allows access without getting under the car and gives the air bubbles a place to go even while sitting. It’s no more than a flexible hydraulic line screwed into the highest port on the slave cylinder...I used a Speed bleeder on mine, but a regular one works a treat. This is the one on my 70 MGB.
Rut

 

[TR3driver]

On the TR3s, I've been "self bleeding" for a long time. You have to first get enough fluid in the MC for it to work (usually only a problem if it has been freshly rebuilt); but all it takes is loosening the outlet fitting and working the pushrod by hand for that to happen.

Then tighten the fitting, get in the car and pump up the clutch. Hold the pedal down for a few seconds (maybe 10 or 15) then release. Wait a few more seconds, then repeat. Generally 3 cycles of that is enough to drive the car, so take a drive. It still won't be perfect, but will improve as you drive.

 

[mgedit]

You did not say whether you had Lockheed or Girling system. My TR3 is Lockheed set up. I had no luck getting it to bleed, and resorted to a simple pressure bleed that worked great. Thread is here: https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf...d-Master&highlight=Bleeding+lockheed+cylinder

Cheers, Mike

 

[cmjb11]

I have a 1974 Spitfire and I was wondering if there is a way to bleed the slave cylinder without removing the interior Bell Housing Cover. Can I do it from under the car?