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Clutch Slave Cylinder Travel

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Olafthor

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I'm getting about 1/2" of slave cylinder rod travel after rebuilding both the master cylinder and installing a new slave cylinder on my TR6. I can engage the gears...just barely with a bit of grinding while the engine is running. Is this a hydraulic or clutch problem? About how much throw is typical for the slave cylinder rod?

Many Thanks,
Daniel
 
Hi Daniel

I would say that 1/2 inch is a bit short - but the measurement is open to a bit of error as it is in an awkward place and a theoretical maximum movement is only about 3/4 inch or so, as I recall. I am sure someone will have the exact number handy...

Assuming you are only getting 1/2 inch, then I think you probably have a hydraulics problem - have you tried bleeding the slave with it vertical? Unfasten the clevis pin from the drop arm and remove the mounting plate (complete with slave clyinder) from the bellhousing/engine - then with the cylinder almost vertical push the push rod into the cylinder while opening the bleed nipple. Someone on this board advised me to try it and I found I got some more air out even after I was sure there was none left. Sadly after all that I still had to pull the gearbox thanks to a broken taper pin...

Hope that helps
Alistair
 
Thanks for the idea and info. I'll try the vertical method tomorrow am.
Sincerely,
Daniel
 
[ QUOTE ]
...Sadly after all that I still had to pull the gearbox thanks to a broken taper pin...

[/ QUOTE ]

I'll second the 5/8" remark. You might try this test to see if it is a small bit of air still in there -- you under the car, assistant in driver's seat working the pedal. Measure the movement of the slave (just to be sure of the 1/2") then have the assistant pump the pedal repeatly several times.

If there is air in there the repeated pumping will usually get the slave to move a bit more as you are compressing the air a bit more than one pump will do.

If this test &/or more bleeding doesn't do it than maybe you need to ponder that 'dreaded clutch fork pin'.

BTW -- confirm that you have the spring in place that returns the fork arm and that it is in the correct (middle) of the three holes.

Some have resorted to using the top hole rather than the middle to get a bit more action on the clutch fork (at the expense of slightly increased pedal effort). Not ideal, but something to keep in mind I guess.
 
I just visited the Revington TR site...they address this problem and suggest you check all of the meachanical linkages for wear. If any parts are worn, an adjustable pushrod should be substituted for the OEM rod.

They also say that a good indication of this problem is having problems putting the trans into reverse or second (most likely to have a worn syncro)...
 
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