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General TR Clutch Slave Adjustment

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KVH

KVH

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According to the manual, the procedure is to unscrew the fork rod until all slack with the piston is taken up, then to screw it back in .10 inches and lock the nut. This sounds easy, but is there any guidance on “taking up the slack” when unscrewing the rod?

Because the slave piston can apparently rest as slightly different locations when the return spring is removed, is the manual instructing us to keep unscrewing the rod until the piston is at its farthest extreme, and with the rod tight against it? I can do that, but only by grasping that rod fairly tight and unscrewing it with some real force applied (no tools, of course).

I would think this is correct, because nothing else seems to make sense, but I’m surprised how far the rod can be unscrewed, pushing the piston back.

Thx all.
 
Yes...the slave piston will be full extreme inside the cylinder and against the stop. That part is usually easy. The hard part is that once the piston hits the stop, if you keep unscrewing, you start to move the clutch lever and release the clutch. You have to carefully differentiate between the slave piston stop and the movement of the clutch fork.

Note: the purpose of backing off .01" from the stop is to allow the clutch fork to pull the throw-out bearing away from the clutch, so that it will not wear. If I understand what you are saying, then you are not planning to use the return spring? If so, then the throw out bearing will never be pulled from the clutch fingers, and the bearing will spin full time. In this case, you really don't need to worry about the .01" back-off.

The main reason for not using the return spring is to gain some time after the clutch fork pin has sheared. If this is your case, just remember that removing the spring is a temporary "fix". At some point you will need to fix the shear pin.
 
I'm actually using the spring. I just remove it when making the slave rod adjustment. But I'm glad to know it's correct to be sure that piston is all the way back before opening up the gap back to .10. I was rather careful not to move the clutch fork when unscrewing the slave rod.
 
That'll work! And you are correct in removing the return spring for the adjustment, as it can confuse what you are feeling as you move the rod.
 
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