Hey Guest!
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
tomshobby
Yoda
Offline
Before reading further I want to indicate that I am not saying this is the best way to make this joint more secure, only an alternative to consider.
I have felt that a possible way to strengthen the clutch shaft/fork assembly would be to add a second taper pin. I did not want to use a second of the original design because I felt the size of the taper hole might compromise the integrity of the shaft itself. I also did not wish to use a standard taper pin because it might dislodge.
It seemed to me that the answer might be a threaded taper pin. I have been searching for these threaded taper pins for some time. When I finally found a source I found they were not sure how to describe the size and so I ended up ordering a few of different sizes and finally found the size I wanted to use.
The threaded taper pin I used is AN386-2-10
The taper pin washer is AN975-3
The shear nut is AN320-3
The cotter pin is AN380-2-2
This AN386-2-10 taper pin is .255" at the small end. With 2 indicating the Browne & Sharpe taper size.
The next larger size is .317" at the small end.
This treaded taper pin is AN386-3-10
The taper pin washer is AN975-4
I do not have the number for the nut.
The cotter pin is AN380-2-2
I felt the .317" taper hole size might compromise the shaft integrity. And that the smaller .255" pin would add the strength needed.
I suggest drawing a 3/4" circle and then draw the pins in place (.500" taper in 1ft) and make your own judgment.
Here are two sources for these pins. The first being the manufacturer.
https://www.taper-pins.com/taper_pins.htm
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an386taperpin.php
This the pin itself. Ream the hole so when the pin is seated the flat on the threaded end is flush or no more than 1/16" extended.
I used a center punch to mark the hole and drilled with a 15/64" drill slightly smaller than the small end of the pin. I then opened the hole from the back, as seen in this photo, to less than half depth with a 17/64" drill ( a step you can leave out if you are not comfortable doing it) to remove some of the excess material for the reamer. DO NOT FORGET TO INSTALL THE ORIGINAL TAPER PIN FIRST. And be sure your fork is orientated correctly.
I then used a #2 B&S reamer. When ordering your reamer be sure it is smaller on the small end than your pin. I happened to have a set in my box. So I do not know the cost.
Here is a nice lubricant for drilling or reaming most metals.
Just dip the tool.
Reaming is not real difficult since the ream will tend to follow the hole. It can be done by hand using a T-handle tap wrench or using a drill. If using a drill be careful of to much speed. A reamer should be run about 1/2 to 1/3 the speed of a corresponding twist drill.
This shows the depth my ream reached for the pin fit result I wanted.
And here are two pictures with the pin washer and nut. the lacing wire and cotter pin will be added after final instillation in the bell housing.
I have felt that a possible way to strengthen the clutch shaft/fork assembly would be to add a second taper pin. I did not want to use a second of the original design because I felt the size of the taper hole might compromise the integrity of the shaft itself. I also did not wish to use a standard taper pin because it might dislodge.
It seemed to me that the answer might be a threaded taper pin. I have been searching for these threaded taper pins for some time. When I finally found a source I found they were not sure how to describe the size and so I ended up ordering a few of different sizes and finally found the size I wanted to use.
The threaded taper pin I used is AN386-2-10
The taper pin washer is AN975-3
The shear nut is AN320-3
The cotter pin is AN380-2-2
This AN386-2-10 taper pin is .255" at the small end. With 2 indicating the Browne & Sharpe taper size.
The next larger size is .317" at the small end.
This treaded taper pin is AN386-3-10
The taper pin washer is AN975-4
I do not have the number for the nut.
The cotter pin is AN380-2-2
I felt the .317" taper hole size might compromise the shaft integrity. And that the smaller .255" pin would add the strength needed.
I suggest drawing a 3/4" circle and then draw the pins in place (.500" taper in 1ft) and make your own judgment.
Here are two sources for these pins. The first being the manufacturer.
https://www.taper-pins.com/taper_pins.htm
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an386taperpin.php
This the pin itself. Ream the hole so when the pin is seated the flat on the threaded end is flush or no more than 1/16" extended.
I used a center punch to mark the hole and drilled with a 15/64" drill slightly smaller than the small end of the pin. I then opened the hole from the back, as seen in this photo, to less than half depth with a 17/64" drill ( a step you can leave out if you are not comfortable doing it) to remove some of the excess material for the reamer. DO NOT FORGET TO INSTALL THE ORIGINAL TAPER PIN FIRST. And be sure your fork is orientated correctly.
I then used a #2 B&S reamer. When ordering your reamer be sure it is smaller on the small end than your pin. I happened to have a set in my box. So I do not know the cost.
Here is a nice lubricant for drilling or reaming most metals.
Just dip the tool.
Reaming is not real difficult since the ream will tend to follow the hole. It can be done by hand using a T-handle tap wrench or using a drill. If using a drill be careful of to much speed. A reamer should be run about 1/2 to 1/3 the speed of a corresponding twist drill.
This shows the depth my ream reached for the pin fit result I wanted.
And here are two pictures with the pin washer and nut. the lacing wire and cotter pin will be added after final instillation in the bell housing.
