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T-Series Clutch replacement

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BoneIdle

BoneIdle

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I was on my way back from the BMV, when I noticed what seemed to be a slight slippage in 3rd gear. If I were at, say 2000 RPM and floored it, the engine raced and yet road speed didn't keep pace. Same thing in 4th. 1st and 2nd seemed to be fine.

So, I'm suspecting it may be time for the clutch to be replaced.

Is this a one person job. Can I do it at home, or is it better to have someone replace it (i.e. a mechanic)?

I've read the instructions in the B.M.C. Workshop manual ( Still can't find my Bentley manual) and I understand that the engine has to be removed. My big problem is that I know no one up here who can assist.

So, any thoughts?
 
It's very doable with one person just takes a bit longer. A very long day vs an easy morning job. Make sure you have an engine leveler and if you dont have a hoist rent one for a day if your just doing the clutch. Watch out for the might as wells as full blown resto's have started out this way.

What year car? Pre rubber bumper is a lot easier than a rubber bumper.
 
Aww RATS.

Engine and box out as a unit. Split 'em on the floor.

It can be done single-handed but first time attempt would be better with help.

Have you ferreted out any clubs in the area yet? Might be a good thing to do, they'd at least know who to suggest if you have to 'farm it out'.
 
Yeah, Doc, but I knew it was gonna have to happen eventually. At least I've got a nice garage here.

No clubs yet, but I'm looking.

Stewart: It's a '74 chrome bumper

Engine leveler? I'm not familiar with the term.

What about hoists? Anything from Harbor Freight or the like worth purchasing? Or should I just look for a rental?

Lay some "Might as wells" on me. I can start a list. I'd already planned on replacing the rear main seal.

What's the difference between the Borg & Beck kits and the others?
 
I've recently put Sachs units in a couple Japanese cars and been impressed with the "kit". Haven't looked to see if they supply 'em for MGBs. Another tidbit is that Timken make a throw-out bearing replacement. Timken # MG1716... Haven't actually seen one yet but p'raps Bob or someone who's doing more "work" than I'm doin' has tried it.

Actually, I wonder if that'd be something to NOT lower the idle RPM when the clutch is depressed?!?
 
OH! And R&R the transmission input and tailshaft seals. :wink:
 
If you buy one - buy the one from Harbor Freight that has the legs that'll fold up....you can also buy an engine level from them or you can get on from Moss...you'll need to be able to point the engine/trans almost straight up.

Now:

1. Open the hood & remove the hood stay... tie the hood straight up in the ait using the hatch handle or rear bumper as a tie off.

2. Jack the rear of the car as high as possible & the front only enough for you to slide under to disconnect the exhaust, etc.....keep the rear of the car jacked higher han the front.

Then, follow your workshop for remobing engine/trans.
 
On the pre-emission cars we had it down to a 45 minute drill with a little practice. :wink:
 
You can do it either way eingine than tranny or bit at once but it's much easy to pull them together. While you're in there change the rear main seal and the front input shaft seal to the tranny. A tip, mark the output shaft flange for the drive shaft and unbolt the drive shaft vise pulling the spline apart. In other word keep the drive shaft assemble together and re-install the flange in the same place. If you take it apart put it back together the same way or the drive shaft could be out of phase and you'll get some nasty virbrations. You might want to check your starter ring too. If you don't plan on ever doing it again I'd rent or barrow the tools. Another tip would be to check the torque on the flywheel bolts since you've got to torque the clutch bolt too.

An engine leveler is a devise that changes the center of gravity of the engine thus allows you to tilt the engine over the front of the car.

I agree with doc if you've never pulled an engine before find a buddy that has. A garge will thin your wallet but a bud might cost some bear and pizza.
 
The engine leveler goes between the engine and the hoist and allows you to change the angle of the engine on the fly. Very handy tool and makes the job quite a bit easier and faster. To rent or buy is a tough one. If your going to take your time on the job the rental fee after 2-3 days will be very close to the cost of buying a new hoist. However you then have to store the hoist which can be a pain if your short on space.

Your going to want to change all the mounts. Odds are the transmission mounts are gooey at best. Search out the transmission crossmember mod as it will make life so much easier when it comes to reinstall. If you dont have an overdrive now is the time to find one. This is the perfect time to refresh any seals or gaskets that may be leaking. If you wanted to paint your engine or engine bay its also the perfect time. You may want to have a speedi sleve on hand for the crank incase it's groved.
 
Make sure you keep the leveler VERY WELL GREASED, it will be a lot easier. Since you'll be yanking the crossmember (nowhere near as much fun as it sounds)it would be a great time to install the exhaust heat sheield from Moss(#409-120), makes a big difference on cockpit heat.
 
BoneIdle,
There is a small, but very active British car club in the Warsaw/Lake Webster/Columbia City/Fort Wayne, IN area. There are probably a number of members willing to give you a hand. In fact, changing the cluth may make a great Saturday Tech Session for the club. Some of the members have lifts and various engine hoists.

The club is the "Northern Indiana Lakes British Motoring Club".

The website is: www.nilbmc.org
e-Mail at nilbmc@hotmail.com
Current president is Bob Barth, email at: bobcatbarth@embarqmail.com
The club meets once a month in Warsaw.

I would love to give you hand, but we only are in the lake area during the summer and have already returned to Ohio for the winter.

Good luck,
Dave
 
I have a opinion on clutches! I deal mostly with Engel and ordered 2 Borg and Beck clutches. What a surprise when 2 Quinton hazel boxes arrived. When I called I was told to look at the clutches and they would have Borg and beck on them. Correct I said and installed one. The pedel engagement is right at the top. NOT what i wanted to have. So since I noticed the flywheel had a shine and almost looked polished I removed the engine and had the flywheel resurfaced. No change and the 2nd clutch is now going back to Engel. The pressure plate also does not look like the old style B and B units. I will not use one of these again! I do the R&R on just the engine and its a 4 hour job including changing the flywheel and clutch assembly. Your times may vary. Bob
 
When I logged in tonight, I was excited since I was able to drive the GT today, but the first thing I saw was that Tony Barnhill is no longer with us.

I'm stunned and initially I thought it was a hoax ( or at least I hoped it was).

I'll go on with my message as originally intended, albeit with far less enthusiasm than when I first logged in.

I ended up having a local garage do the replacement. I wanted to try it myself, but right after I posted my last message, I began having problems sleeping at night: I was waking up periodically gasping for breath. It turned out to be severe sleep apnea and for the last month and a half I've been living in a sort of shadow world: not quite awake and yet not asleep.

At any rate, I didn't feel comfortable working with tools ( or much else) until after I got my CPAP machine. Then my father contracted C-DIFF and I had to make an emergency trip to Atlanta. So, I entrusted the GT to the garage. They did an excellent job on the clutch replacement, going so far as to send the flywheel out for a little resurfacing.

The clutch feels good and coincidentally, they seem to have corrected my erratic gauge problem ( possibly a loose wire). I'm guessing it must have been when they reinstalled the engine.

Even on these snowy and slick Indiana roads, it's a pleasure to drive , and I've parked the pickup truck in the garage and moved the GT to the driveway for greater accessibility.

I really wish that I'd done all of this earlier so I could have shared the end results with Tony. He was so helpful in my last go-round of problems - I'll definitely miss his wisdom and wit.
 
It ain't pleasant... but it is ~so~.


You can call any time, y'know :wink:
 
Gary;

There are lots of guys here with expertise that can help out.
The good Doctor is one of the prime members.
Glad your car is working well.

Dave :savewave:

P.S. I have never installed a new clutch without resurfacing the flywheel.
 
Yupper....It sounds like you got a good garage to do it for you and lucked out
grin.gif


Good luck with the CPAP...use it dilligently and fathfully every night, home or away, and you WILL notice a big difference in the way you live. I know I did! Good luck!

Bruce
 
The initial report threw me off as it says "T Series"! Big difference in pulling a transmission. No date, but when I saw Tony's reply, I knew it wasn't yesterday.
 
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