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T-Series clutch pedal

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J

jjh

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Gave my daughter a lesson in operating manual shift transmission. now clutch engages very near top limit of pedal travel. What to do?
 
What type car? I'm assuming MGB?
 
If it's engaging at the top, it's likely time for a new clutch. Failing hydraulics will not allow -disengagement-.
A similar condition to what you describe can be caused by a well worn throw-out bearing. If once engaged, the clutch doesn't 'slip' it points more to the T/O bearing, but it's best to do the whole assembly at the same time: Same amount of work, and the piece you don't replace WILL fail sooner than later.
 
And how many have you taught to shift with it, hehe.
 
Can you measure the amount that the master or slave cylinder push rods are being actuated when the clutch pedal is depressed? I believe I once read that this distance should be checked, though I can't think of what could suddenly prevent them from traveling fully.
 
You might check the clevis pin holding the pedal to the MC push rod. Sometimes they wear considerably, allowing free play.
 
Yup. I've seen clevis pins that looked like miniature cranksafts. The holes in the pedals egged to the point there was a 1/16" of material left before they escaped. Actuating rod "horseshoes" with oblong holes... All those would cause a clutch to be difficult to DISENGAGE: LESS movement at the T/O.

EDIT: Rethinking it, the T/O bearing would do the same thing, so my first post is in error too! Mia Culpa! It can be only a worn driven plate or a weakened diaphragm.
 
My question is also clutch pedal related....but my clutch engages at the very bottom, just about 1 inch off of the floor. How do I get engagement further off of the floor? Thanks. Oh...I have a 1956 MGA Roadster.
 
Make the clutch slave cylinder rod a bit longer?
 
When diging out my cyl slave rod today I notice that I in fact have several of differing lengths. Used a stock one, we will see, easy to change.
 
Oh, wish I knew, mine is installed, sorry.
 
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