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CLUTCH NOT SPINNING

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BIBBER

BIBBER

Jedi Knight
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Working on a deal with a guy who has a Jag e-type out of storage for 20 years. Everything put up right and everything done to prepare startright. She fires up first shot and purrs like a cat...but the clutch he states is not spinning. Worked fine into storage so has to be related to setting. I suggested, placing car in gear and crancking to see if it would walk, spray Wd40 up into the clutch and plates to see if they would break while rocking the car. Rebleed the hydraulics.....ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS???
 
Don't spray WD40 or any other lubricant up into the clutch,if it does free it you will end up with a contaminated friction plate.If you find that you have agood clutch pedal and the fulcrum arm is moving-Try putting it in 2nd ,clutch pedal fully depressed,handbrake on and foot on brake and try and crank engine ,have released seized clutches this way.OR-take it out onto quiet roadwhere you can start it in gear and depress clutch pedal fully and accelerate and decelerate rapidly .or pull gearbox and physically remove clutch.but I have always managed to free a clutch with one or other of these methods without having to pull the clutch,but afterwards it is recomendable to pull the clutch inspect and clean rusted surfaces and replace parts as necessary-good luck
 
NO LUBRICANTS! Hydraulics first: Be certain the slave is working the arm thru full travel. Warm it to operating temp then do the rolling 2nd cog start with clutch depressed to get momentum. Accelerate-brake-acclelrate-brake... it's horrible and DRAMATIC but it will usually work to release a rusted clutch plate.
 
thanks guys...kind of what I thought cept for the WD40...I should've known better...passed on to the seller..If I can convince the other half around here to let me reinvest in another e-type it's to my better to have it moving...cheaper to transport that way....
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]CLUTCH NOT SPINNING [/QUOTE]By that statement, do you mean its frozen to the flywheel? If so, put her in gear & drag her around the block...the wheels will slide for a bit until she breaks free.
 
Tony...gotta believe that's the case...the seller probably doesn't want to mess with it..but it's to the better for the buyer if he frees it up so it can be driven to load...plus to him for price (not that it gets me anywhere unless he cuts me a deal for being a nice guy)...but my marital counseling sessions would chew up any savings!!!
 
If he doesn't want to fix it & you ding around with it long enough to fix it, you're just bettering his position, not yours...find out what a new clutch would cost at your local repair place & offer him what you think is fair, using that price as leverage.

Then, as you're pulling it out of his drive, toss it in gear & break the clutch loose! hehehe
 
Tony, you're a man, err, pumpkin, after my own heart...

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif
 
just saw this post, usually don't look here. i had the same thing in my tr4. clutch plate sticks to the flywheel. was told it was ok when put away 15 years ago. i redid hydraulic's but still no clutch.

so what i did is start it in first gear and take off down the street. lurch the car when you get some speed, maybe 2000 + rpm's. after 3/4 of a block or so it broke free. good luck! oh, i don't know if this is what did it but the rear motor mount was broken. check that old rubber.
 
Getting the engine/gearbox up to temp first is a good idea, then a fairly clear run (no traffic, no children/pets/parked cars, etc) and set off in second gear. No "need for speed" here: 10~20 MPH, depress clutch and apply the brakes enthusiastically. Should "SNAP!" and let go.

...It ~is~ brutal on mounts & driveline but it's worked every time for me. Just be certain the hydraulics are not the problem first.
 
tony barnhill said:
Then, as you're pulling it out of his drive, toss it in gear & break the clutch loose! hehehe
Click to expand...

Love it. Tony strikes again.
 
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hehehehe /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
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