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T-Series clutch Master cylinder or slave?

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J

jayhawk

Jedi Warrior
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Hi folks! I'm back in an MGB again after a long run with assorted Miatas-- I'm lovin' having a B again but just had a clutch failure. Wife and I were doing a neighborhood cruise and I first noticed the clutch didn't release for shifting unless fully depressed. By the time I got back home and pulled in the driveway, I had to no clutch. I did the do the clutchless shifting thing to get the car the rest of the way into the garage (you know, synch the RPM or stop the car in neutral, shift into first and start the car in gear). Anyway, are the symptoms different with MC failure and slave failure? I assumed it was the MC since it failed like another car I had but not sure. Comments?
 
Could be either, although if there's no fluid loss it's the master since the slave has only one seal while with the master it's possible for the "pressure" seal that pushes against the fluid to fail and not actually leak. Had one do exactly what your's did years ago and new master seals fixed it right up.
 
No noticeable fluid loss in the MC reservoir. Had a few more spots on the garage floor in past days but nothing more than a silver dollar. It had been seeping a little antifreeze from a poorly sealed water pump and little oil from the head gasket. I guess I'll start with the MC since I can't discern the real source. I've done seal kits with my previous Miatas but It was 1974 since I had the seals replaced in my '72 MGB!
 
Check your flex line at the slave cylinder - may have collapsed or otherwise gone south.
 
Have found that the best approach is to replace the master, slave, hose, and copper washers at once. Bleeding can be a pain, and having to do it repeatedly as you go through the components is even more frustrating.
 
badams500 said:
Have found that the best approach is to replace the master, slave, hose, and copper washers at once. Bleeding can be a pain, and having to do it repeatedly as you go through the components is even more frustrating.
Click to expand...

Must agree. Treat it as a "system at a time" endeavor. At the least, rebuild kits may work but the cylinders are usually too pitted (if the vehicle sat static for any length of time) for a good seal around the cups.
 
Back for a report so far- I replaced the slave and the flexible hose first. The hose was cracked and a bit wet so I felt it needed replacement anyway. Getting the hose off was a real hassle--It was tough to get a wrench on top and I had to cut the hose so I could get a good solid bite on the bottom nut with a 13/16 box end wrench or socket. As it turned out, the master was so worn it wouldn't pump enough fluid to the new slave to bleed it.-- So off I'll go to get a master. Getting the old master off was not as bad as the slave hose but I can see that bottom bolt might be a bit tricky to get started.
 
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