Clutch Issues

[britndablood]

The clutch lasted for one drive around the block. It will not disengage. I took the slave off this morning and found the PO installed a 1/4" drive 3/8" socket on the end of the push rod connecting the slave to the release bearing fork. Making it longer. I rebuilt the slave and put in a new push rod. I noticed on the install that there was 1" of play in the release bearing fork before it touches the pressure plate. Also pushing in the clutch now will kill the engine and not disengage the clutch. I am looking for suggestion and maybe reassurance on what I suspect. Which is the release bearing is worn into the steel and now needs to travel further to hence the socket by the PO and the lack of bearing draging on the pressure plate causing the engine to die.

 

[TimK]

I'm missing the back story. Where did you start? Sounds like you need to remove the transmission and see what needs replacing. I recently did this and have a lot to offer if you want to hear it.

 

[Randy Forbes]

There are at least three (3) different release bearings, depending on the clutch used (9", 10" or 9-1/2"), so it's also possible that the correct one hasn't been fitted.

Killing the engine: overtravel and putting the crankshaft hard against the thrust surface. You're not going to want to do that too often!

Once you have the xmsn out (sorry, but it looks that way...) verify the crankshaft thrust by levering it fore & aft with a prybar. A dial indicator reading the travel will tell you exactly where you are (rotate the crank, and take readings in a few positions).

 

[britndablood]

from the begining
1 the car has set for 11+ years
2 has 10K on the odometer more like 110K
3 I rebuild the clutch master and bled the system
4 took it for a drive 4 blocks, Hard to shift from a stop
5 clutch stopped working
6 decided to rebuild the slave and found the PO socket as a push rod extender
and 1" of play in the release bearing fork
7 reassembled with the correct push rod
8 now the clutch will not dissengage and the engine will die if the clutch pedel is push down hard.

Unfortunatlly I agree a "little" exploritory surgry is in order

It seams that the years of 9, 9 1/2, 10" clutches overlap so parts ordering is out until I can get my hands dirty. I might try a bore scope tomorrow and see if there is any way I can see the release bearing.

When I do pull the tranny is there anything else besides the crank endplay I should check?

 

[Keoke]

When I do pull the tranny is there anything else besides the crank endplay I should check?

1] Condition of flywheel surface may need regrinding.

2] Condion of the starter ring may be worn

3] Condition of the clutch disk and Pressure plate

4] Condition of the throwout bearing

--------------Get Busy--Keoke-- :laugh:

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Could a shot pilot bushing be causing the problem?

At any rate, replace it too.

 

[TimK]

Things I wish I had known before I removed the trans or which I think are important:
1. Be careful of the oil pressure gauge line (I tore the rubber hose when removing trans and thought I had a transmission oil leak when I put the trans back in)
2. There should be a number 1 on the flywheel which is supposed to be at 12:00 when the engine is at TDC -- this is an issue only if you remove the flywheel.

3. There should be 2 "dowel" bolts, identified by a groove around the bolt shaft above the threaded portion. These align the transmission and should be at 11:00 and 5:00 o'clock (upper left and lower right)

4. Replace the oil seal at the front of the transmission.
5. Replace all transmission mounts and steady bracket bushings. I used poly (hard) bushings for the steady bracket and now have a vibration which may be related to incorrectly reinstalling the flywheel without regard to the marking magnified by the hard bushings.
6. Support the back of the engine by jacking slightly under the rear of the oil pan.
7. Build a wooden support bench slightly lower than the trans, then jack it up just enough to allow withdrawing trans then rest the trans on it when you pull it back to disengage input shaft from clutch. Then pull it sideways 90 deg. and take it out the passenger side door.
8. Check for oil leaks and install new gaskets and use Hylomar sealer. (I didn't do this and have leaks at every joint.)
9. Replace clutch, pressure plate, and throw-out bearing.
10. Consider installing a supplemental rear main oil seal kit from Moss or British Car Specialists.

 

[britndablood]

Can some one provide the following diminsions?
1. lenght on slave cylinder
2. lenght of push rod for the slave

I am wondering if the PO put the wrong slave on the car.

 

[TimK]

Here is a picture of mine (BN7)