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CLUTCH HYDRAULIC HELP

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bluemiata90

bluemiata90

Jedi Trainee
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O.K., I rebuilt the clutch slave (twice), I rebuilt the clutch master (once). I bleed all (plus) the air out of the system. I made sure the bleeder nut is on top so all the air comes out. I did buy a new clutch hose, but I'm getting all kinds of fluid through the system, so at this time I haven't replaced it cause I really don't feel it will make any difference. The slave rod pushes back, I even bought an adjustable rod. I get pressure on the pedal and the clutch just bearly engages. If I do get it to engage, it catches at the floor and even with the clutch all the way in, it still rides on the plate, cause I have to keep my foot on the brake to stop the car from moving. I even placed washers onto the slave mounting bolts to move the slave closer to the clutch connecting arm. It almost feels like it needs a much longer rod to move the bearing in more. I am all out of ideas. Does anyone have any ideas what I might be missing.
 
Broken fork pin?
 
Buy yourself a NEW SLAVE CLYD.

thre could be scoring on the inside of the cylnder, hard to say without seeing it
 
If all the air is out of the lines, start here:

1. Push the slave piston as far back with the slave rod as it will go. Move the slave rod back and forth to determine how much free play there is. If more than a 1/4", lengthen the slave rod until there is only 1/8"-1/4" of free play.

2. After doing #1 ablove, press the clutch pedal and measure the amount of travel on the slave rod. Should be about 1/2".

3. Start the car and see if it works now. If not:

4. Check the clevis pins and holes in the top of the pedal and clutch master cylinder accuating rod. If any wear is present then you are losing pedal to to take up for the wear. There is a site called, I believe, Macy's Garage. He has a section on how to repair worn holes and pins.

Hope this helps.

Jim
 
Have someone step on the clutch pedal while you watch for movement at the slave cylinder. The rod does not move very much, maybe 1/2 - 3/4 in. If you have this much motion, there is nothing wrong with the clutch hydraulics. However, you probably (unfortunately) have a broken clutch clevis pin. This is a PITA job! But if this is the problem, the tranny must come out.
 
Which car are you working on? If it's a TR6, there should be a spring inside the slave cylinder that holds the piston out (lightly) against the lever & TOB, to eliminate any freeplay or need for adjustment at the slave.

Unfortunately, your comments sound a lot like the dreaded broken taper pin to me, as that is exactly what happened to my TR3A. The pin broke at one side of the shaft, so the fork turned just a bit until it hit the pin on the other side of the shaft and the stock pushrod wasn't long enough to adjust to the new position. I fabricated a longer pushrod as a workaround, and drove that way for several years, though I have to say it was never very satisfactory.

But do check the joint between the pedal and MC pushrod first as wear at that point can lose enough pedal travel to cause your symptoms as well.
 
If the dreaded pin is broken, would the clutch engage at all???. I figured that if the clutch pin was broken, that the clutch would not engage. It will engage, but at floor level, plus if I pump the clutch, it will pump up a little. Maybe buying a rebuilt slave is the answer, I must admit, this one has me stumped.
 
Did you by any chance remove the plate which supports the slave cylinder ? Could you have put it back on on the wrong side of the flange for the bell-housing ? Did you remove the long support rod that strengthens this plate and which is attached to the 2nd bolt for the oil pan ? Is this support rod missing, in which case the bracket would be flexing one way when the clutch rod from inside the slave cylinder should be moving the other way. If this is the case, you risk breaking off a big chunk of the flange from your bell-housing.
 
bluemiata90 said:
If the dreaded pin is broken, would the clutch engage at all???.
Click to expand...
Original.jpg
Here's a drawing from Nelson's excellent article on the Buckeye Triumphs site.

What happens is that the pin breaks at the bottom, where the white circle is. Then the upper part shown in the inset hits the side of it's hole, and the shaft continues to turn the fork, just not quite at the original angle.
 
might wanna check the crank for end play if your working on a TR6. Thrust washers in a tr6 are known to fall out on occasion.
 
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