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Tips
Tips

clutch frozen

brent615

Jedi Trainee
Offline
my car had not been driven for 8 months or more when i bought it in january. the clutch pedal only moves about 1 inch. there is fluid in the clutch master but i did find some fluid leaking where the line enters the slave, not much, just a drop or two. before i replace the slave is it possible air in the line has frozen it? should i try bleeding it first? anything else i should try first?
 
If the clutch master cyl., slave cylinder, or line is leaking, or has air in it, the clutch pedal should still bottom out to the firewall floor. The clutch master or clutch slave cylinder piston(s)may be frozen in the cylinder. I would check for free movement of the master and slave cylinder piston rods first. I also own a 3 so I'm not totally up with the TR6 master cylinder operation. The other more involved problems could be with the internal working of the throw out bearing, clutch operating shaft, or clutch driven plate hub (friction disk) binding itself on the first motion shaft splines. Best to get another opinion from a 6 owner though before you go tearing into it.
 
When you push on the pedal does the slave cylinder pushrod move at all ? If it doesn't and you have a hard pedal (without bottoming out the clutch master cylinder), the slave cylinder is probably badly corroded and need replacement or rebuild. I'm assuming that the clutch crosshaft is not seized or otherwise corroded into immobility. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hammer.gif
 
Diagnose both at once.

unhook the slave cyl push rod from the clutch crosshaft.

You should be able to rock the crosshaft back and forth
a bit by hand with no great effort. Listen for the throw
out bearing movement.

Visually inspect the slave cyl push rod. Try the pedal now,
unhooked.

My bet is on the slave cylinder needed replacement.

d
 
Brent: Here is a photo of the insides of
the tranny case showing the cross shaft, slave
cylinder push rod, throw out bearing, bearing fork,
bushings, etc.

Make sure you connect the push rod to the middle
hole of the cross shaft lever arm. Also, you might
have to add steel washers as shims to the slave cylinder
mounting bolts to get the push rod centered over the
middle hole.

David- was I paying attention?

Good luck-Tinster
slave.jpg
 
Next time I'll be able to watch you Dale.
Your advice is right on the money.
Dave
 
Update: removed the slave cylinder. the old one was a little stiff but moved with some working. i tried to install the new one but the threads from the line into the slave don't match????? it threads in easily in the old one but the new one won't start.

Tinster-the cross shaft lever arm (with the slave disconnected) only moves about an inch total. should it move more? it hits something solid when you go either direction.
 
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