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Clutch engagement

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Rod_Barber

Rod_Barber

Freshman Member
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Being new I posted this in the wrong place.

Just bought this car. Got the engine running sounds great. Transmission shifts fine but when the clutch is released there is no engagement . Feels like the clutch is still in even thought the cluct pedal is all the way out. I looked under the car and moved the clutch pedal in and out and the arm to the throw out bearing was going back and forth. Car had been sitting for three years. Could something be stuck (Throw out bearing). Looks like a big job to pull the transmission.

It a 1963 6 cylinder engine with the four speed with overdrive .
Rod

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Good day Rob, and welcome to the Forum. Yes, it does sound like the clutch disk is stuck to the flywheel. Here's some things you can try;
with the transmission in 4th gear try pushing the car forward (may take two people). Another would be to run the starter with the car in gear. Make sure you unplug the coil wire to keep the engine from starting.
The idea here is to "jolt" the flywheel a little to release the clutch disk.
Let us all know if this helps.
 
What puzzles me is Rod's statement that "Transmission shifts fine but when the clutch is released there is no engagement." If, indeed, he is able to get the transmission in gear, then a stuck disc would spin that transmission, and the rear wheels, with no relief from the clutch. Or is my mind just not getting around the problem?
 
If I'm reading his question right, it sounds like the opposite of the disk stuck to the flywheel.

I hate to say it, but the car probably sat for 3 years because the PO didn't want to pull the transmission...
 
Whew! I thought my senior moments had turned into a permanent condition.

Rod: Are you sure you are getting the transmission into gear? You might start by taking off the transmission tunnel and checking to see that the shift lever is truly seated in the shifting mechanism. Observe the movement of the shift lever to make sure that it is actually operating the shifting rod. If so, and you are really able to get the car in gear, all gears, then it does look like a much more serious problem.
 
I would have thought the same thing but the car was driven to the placee it sat and it belonged to a very close friend that would have told me if that was problem.
I'm sure it is a major job to pull the tranny
Thanks for the reply

Rod
 
Hi Rod,
Welcome to the Forum. One weak spot in the clutch system is the rubber hose that is located down by the starter motor. That can decay and cause blockage like a one way valve. Since you are unfamiliar with the car, you might see the fork moving back and forth, but it may not be going through it's full travel. As you release the clutch pedal, the fork may release until the hose blocks the fluid return, thus keeping the clutch engaged. If the car has been sitting for three years, I'd replace the brake fluid also. That can start to crystallize like an old jar of honey.
One cheap thing you could try is to open the bleed screw on the slave cylinder. If the fork moves when you do that, the hose is most likely bad. Getting at the bleed screw is a bear, you might want to remove the trans cover for better access.
 
When we first went to pick the car up I had optimistically planned to drive the car home. Oh well on that thought. I had actually drivern this ssme car 9 years ago and had fallen in love with it and made the comment that if it was ever for sale please call. Tried to start it after replacing the battery and new fuel pump was installed. Car started right up. Sounds great. Car could not be moved because the left rear brake drum was froze. Removed the Wheel and tire and what about those funny looking nuts that hold the drum on shaft. What's with those funny looking washers on the out side of the nuts. Tried to break one of the nuts loose and the wheel drum began to turn. Rotated it a few time and the breake broke free. Put the tire back on and loaded the car on a trailer and brought it home. Again thanks for the comments

Rod
 
GregW said:
Getting at the bleed screw is a bear, you might want to remove the trans cover for better access.
Click to expand...

Yep. But, it's held with two 3/8" fine bolts which you can get to from underneath (barely). Requires either a 1/2" or 9/16" wrench (don't remember for sure). The top one is a little hard to get to--this is where a ratcheting end wrench pays for itself. You'll need to disconnect the pushrod to the throwout lever as well. Of course, you'll need to be on a lift or VERY secure on jackstands.
 
Thanks Greg Ok I'll try all that and get back.
I see that you are in Santa Monica I bought my first Healy in Northridge in 1964. It was sort of a mismash of Healys. It was a 59 with curved windsheild, roll up windows, disc breaks (all wheels) with Girling brake assist. The best part it was right hand drive. Had it parked at my parents house when it went to Viet Nam and it was stolen while I was gone. Found it stripped in a field. I took the insurance money and let it go. If I had only known what it would be worth today I would have kept the parts. Now I am tryuing to relive those stolen moments with this new project..
 
Bob_Spidell said:
GregW said:
Getting at the bleed screw is a bear, you might want to remove the trans cover for better access.
Click to expand...

Yep. But, it's held with two 3/8" fine bolts which you can get to from underneath (barely). Requires either a 1/2" or 9/16" wrench (don't remember for sure).
Click to expand...
Hi Bob, :savewave:
Are you referring to the two bolts that hold the slave cylinder on?
 
Hi Rod,
One thing I thought of later. Just before you open the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder, pump the clutch lever a couple times. You want to try and build pressure to get a more noticeable release if the hose is actually the culprit.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. Took off the tunnel cover so I could see what was going on. Seat tracks needed lubing anyway. Exercised the clutch lever and manually pushed it all the way forward. Did this a few times and then pusedh the clutch pedal in a few more time. Seems to get a bit more travel on the arm. Car was in gear keys out of the ignition and I noticde a rubber cover bump at the two oclock on the back of the bell housing. Being curious I pushed it and the starter engaged and the the clutch appeared to be engaged. Apparently the clutch problem was solved. Got the keys started her up and every thing is normal..
Rod
 
^ Good news, but I would not declare victory until you at least bleed out the system. I would probably replace the rubber hose in any event. I know there is a fellow on here who is against replacing parts that have not yet broken, but this hose is cheap and I consider it part of regular maintenance to replace it every 6 or 7 years.
 
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