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T-Series Clutch Cylinder Rebuild

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M

MGBSteve

Freshman Member
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I replaced the clutch slave cylinder, and discovered that the master was leaking as well. I bought a rebuild kit from Victoria British, but I cannot seem to get the piston out of the bore. It is a '76 MGB. The Haynes manual says to disconnect the boot, and remove the clevis pin, then remove the clip, but I cannot seem to see how the clip is fitted in. I tried to remove the master cylinder completely, but the lower bolt is impossible to reach. The book says to go through the body access under the dash, but even from there it is a heck of a reach. Any suggestions on what I might be missing in either removing the clip or the cylinder?

Thanks,
Steve /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
To reach the MS bolts from underneath, try a cordless screwdriver with two extra extensions...my screwdriver also had a little light up there and made the reach eazy. The extensions give you a little flexibility too.

Bruce
 
Thanks for the tip - I'll give that a try.

I just can't see the bolt through the access hole. I plan to enlist a friend to help me get it lined up. I tried a universal joint socket with extension, but I can't see the bolt from inside the car.

Am I missing something about the "C" retainer that holds the piston in the bore? I thought I could just pull the piston and change the seals without having to remove the MS, but I can't seem to see the retainer, or how to remove it?

Thanks for your help.
 
Get the MC off the car first, you are not going to be able to do a good rebuild with it in place. When looking at the bore you will find dirt and other crud that has accumulated on the walls over the years. This must be cleaned for the seals to work properly. Also check for pitting. If the walls are pitted the unit will never seal up and a replacement will be in order.
The retaining ring is an internal groove ring. This type of retainer has two small tabs pointing toward the center, in each tab there is a hole for the use of a set of snap ring pliers for the removal or installation. The ring can be removed by using a couple of pointed tools such as dental picks or similar or a pick and a small screw driver but it is easier to do with the MC out of the car.
Good Luck! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
Steve - Do yourself a favor while you have the M/C out, either get a helicoil kit for 5/16 - 24, or take the M/C to a machine shop and have the above size helicoils installed in the mounting holes in the flange of the M/C. This will make the M/C much easier to install (and remove the next time) in that you will not need to get a nut started in a totally inaccesable location. Cheers
 
Success!!

I got the lower bolt out, and removed the cylinder. You're right - it will be much easier to rebuild with it out of the mount. A friend recommended PB Blaster to release the rusty bolt. If they ever need a testimonial for a commercial, I'd be glad to do it. That stuff worked wonders!
 
Tell LLAngus (about the PB Blaster). And even a cheap pair of snap ring pliers will make that job easier, BTW.
 
Oh come on, I bought some didn't I. I like Fluid Film, too. What is cool is the guys at the auto parts store are congradulating me on the products I am buying. That is because you guys (and ladies (JB) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif) tell me what works.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/computer.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/computer.gif
 
heheee. I want stock in the company!

The "other" magic joose is Marvel Mystery Oil, y'know.

Shop supplies... my wallet hates me for 'em. SWMBO understands, so "one outta two."
 
I learned about PB Blaster from a buddy who has a huge foreign car salvage yard...its all they use...they buy it by the case - or should I say multiple cases!
 
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