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TR6 Clunking? [72 TR6]

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Webb Sledge

Webb Sledge

Jedi Warrior
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Everytime you let the clutch out in my car (and I don't mean dumping it), it clunks in the back, and sounds like it's coming from the diff. Is this normal or does it need fluid or what?
 
Webb, check the swing arms and their attachment points for loosness, cracks, rust, etc. Make sure that all the bolts are tight and the bushings are good. Look at the rear shocks and mounts for anything obvious.

Also check all of the U joints, and the pinion for excessive backlash.

There shouldn't be ANY funny noises coming from back there.
Jeff
 
Is'nt there some sort of bracket, or tab, on the Differential that has a tendancy to crack on these cars?
I remember hearing about it several times. It's a fairly common problem for these cars. Just requires a bit of welding to fix it. The guy I just bought my TR6 from said he had to do it to this car. Although I'm not 100% sure what bracket he was talking about. Just that it was on the differential, and caused a "Clunking" sound.
 
Webb, it's probably a good idea to check the fluid in your diff. Easy to do, and should be checked regularly. I think the manual says to check it every 6000?

"Clunking" is often attributed to UJs, but could be a zillion things. Does the clunking occur only when using the clutch? Do you hear it when the car is moving and in gear?

You can do a quick check of the UJs by reaching under the car with it in gear (and the wheels carefully chocked), grab the propshaft and twist it. If there's any play in the UJs, you need to replace all of them.

This is not a great test, but will let you know if they're really bad. Try the above and let us know what happens.

Good luck!
 
Is there an easy way to put diff fluid in our cars, I just had a tube and squeezed the bottle, it took forever and it was a PITA. You'd think it would be easy, but it isn't
 
I usually to put the oil in an old fashion pump/squirt-type oilcan - It still takes you a while but it is a bit neater than a hose and easier to get into the hole in the differential casing
 
Here are a couple of ideas that might be of use. I use a hand-operated pump for topping up axle and gearbox, much quicker. Standing the bottles in hot water for a while before topping up might help too.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Is there an easy way to put diff fluid in our cars, I just had a tube and squeezed the bottle, it took forever and it was a PITA. You'd think it would be easy, but it isn't

[/ QUOTE ]

Go to a marine supply store. They sell hand pumps that are made for filling the lower units on boat motors with gear lube. They screw into the tops of 1 quart bottles. I used one to fill the transmission on my -7, and it took all of 5 minutes to pump in 1 1/2 quarts of ATF (gear lube may take longer because of the viscosity). Mine cost me about $9, which is well worth not have to use the old fill and squirt a few ounces at a time. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
I used a large size shampoo bottle with a pump on the lid. I have about a foot of tubing on the spout. As long as the fluid is not down too far, it is ussually just a few pumps and the amount the leaked out is in the tranny or diff. There is little waste and not much runs down my arm. T.T.
 
I am a firm believer in using STP in the diff appx 60/40 this will add years to an older unit that makes a little noise. But no doubt the clunk is a U Joint. Do them all and pack them with the best high temp wheel bearing grease you can find!!! Many joints are sold too dry or with some kinda fish oil(I guess).
MD(mad dog)
 
Sounds a lot like the rubber mounts on your rear end are shot. There are 4 mounts on the differential, but the 2 that are furthest towards the rear are are made from rubber bonded to steel, and the bond tends to come apart. This may be hard to see unless you remove them. Only 3 bolts per mount, and it's simple to fix. Replacements can be purchased from any of the British car suppliers.
 
I going with bad u-joint. I'd check those first, before I messed with the differential.
 
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