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Clunk in the rear when shifting

Nice toy's, Michael!!

[Not to change the subject!:playful:]

Kurt
That's what I always tell the owners, Kurt! :smile:

View attachment 45031View attachment 45032Houston I think I've identified the problem. This doesn't look right. I'd say those bushings are more than toasted. Those Radius Arms will get changed out for new and Peter C. has a pair of rebuilts available so I can get rid of the Tube Shocks. And new set of Straps from The Strapping Lad as well. Now to come up with a 3.9 pumpin. My source can't find the one he thought he had.

I think "toasted" definitely covers that. I'd still be curious to know how the differential lash is, as much out of curiosity as suspicion.
 
Well I'm hoping to find a good 3.9 to replace the pumpkin that is in there. I'll have to pull the cover when I pull the diff out for painting.
 
So best method for reinstalling Drive Shaft is it the masking tape method? Any other suggestions? Are the driveshaft bolts metal nylocks or normal bolts?

So....Can I ask what this masking tape method is? I'm driving (when it allows me) a TR3B, but I'm always willing to learn more.
Doug
 
Doug,
masking tape method invented by IIRC Frank C involves wrapping the Front Universal Joint with masking tape to hold it straight while trying to insert driveshaft. When you get it back in and drive a horrible racket will happen when you start driving and your car will essentially crap out masking tape from the back off the tranny tunnel as you drive.
 
Rick that sounds easier to do than masking tape. A new engine is coming shipping today and it's bigger than a 1275. Yeah.
 
Why not put a fresh u-joint in, the tension alone will hold the yoke firm enough to slip the yoke into the transmission!
 
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