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TR2/3/3A Cleaning/degreasing timing chain

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GTP1960

GTP1960

Jedi Knight
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Before I put the timing chain cover back on;

I'm wondering what is the best way to clean any greasy crud & gunk from the timing chain and under the cover area?
(even though I had the chain area covered, I managed to sprinkle it with crud while scraping and grinding off the old seal.)
Any reason not to use an aerosol degreaser product?

Appreciate your comments.

Guy
 
Guy, if you plan on dropping the pan, use the degreaser with no worry, but you need to get the gunk out of there. The gasket pieces will gather on the oil pump screen and restrict flow. Good time to clean the pan, if it's never been done.

Wayne
 
Thanks Wayne,

Hadn't thought about cleaning the pan, but I probably should, as it hasn't been done on my watch.

how hard is it to replace the oil pump, while I'm down there?

GP

thanks again
 
GP, it will be right on top of you when the pan comes off. The pan has a slot in it, so it's a pull down at the rear and then slide back. The oil screen is there and you need to be careful, that's it. When it's clear the three bolts for the pump are right there. I would change the screen also.

Wayne
 
Hey, might as well as check the bearings while the pan is off since you've now got the disease.
 
Use the old oil pump probably better that new, but defiantly clean the screen. Did you have oil leaks from the front of the pan? There is an aluminum pieces that bridges the crank gap and uses some small cork seals and they usually leak after time, so get those also. The rear main seal is iffy and if it did not leak too much and you are not planning a rebuild leave it alone.
 
If you have to degrease the timing chain, you might want to change that too. Actually, if you have that much sludge, you've probably got a blow by problem so you might consider new pistons/sleeves. AHHH, welcome to the world of where to stop.
 
Here's a look at what to expect:

crank3_zps571147dd.jpg


You can see how accessible the oil pump is, the screen can be removed without disturbing the pump. I see I used a couple of slotted studs in two of the holes to simplify the install of the pan - gets it lined up easily, a good thing since this may be a one-handed maneuver while you're lying on your back.

Here's the baffle on the pan that was referred to:

OilPan_zpsa27c59c1.jpg


As I recall one lowers the front of the pan a bit then bring it forward just a little to let the rear lip clear.

Perhaps some of the 'while you're in there' suggestions were tongue in cheek - but I would seriously consider having a look at the connecting rod bearings with an eye to refreshing them if you do not like what you see. At the very least I would remove one to get some idea how much action then have had. Of course, don't order replacement ahead of time as you may find something other than standard size has been used.

I wouldn't mess with the main bearings if your oil pressure has been good and no strange sounds or other concerns. But that is just one opinion.
 
Thanks fellas,

this is like the proverbial 1000 miles hike.....it starts with one step.
 
Another secret to consider is if you clean or replace the timing chain; put it in oil
overnite to get it really lubed up.
Harry
 
I agree with keeping the original pump if you can. I've heard several horror stories of poorly made aftermarket pumps that fail. The book gives various checks for wear, and I would inspect the outer rotor for cracks as well.

However, the screen will probably need to be replaced because there is a hole where it is soldered to the pickup tube. Here's an old note on how to help keep that from happening again
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2H2NJt34OffcG9HMFlrYXV0ZjQ/view?usp=sharing
and another with a possible upgrade.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2...YmMyLWJkOTEtMTNhNmYwOTkzMzdj/view?usp=sharing

But to be quite honest, I didn't bother dropping the pan when I changed the timing chain tensioner. Did the best I could to cover up the drain hole while flushing the timing area with Gumout; then afterwards changed the oil before starting the engine. Worked for me, YMMV.
 
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