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Chrome Fender Bead

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pace

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When installing the fender beads, do you pull the tabs down to the underside and bend them over or do you fold them over and squeeze between fender and body.

Thanks

Mike
 
straight through and bend around the lip to help keep them in place.
 
Hello, Mike, on my 3A, I've never had to bend the tabs. Every tab I've ever looked at has been straight; tightening the fender bolts has always compressed the tabs enough so they don't pop up. My car is/was a 1-owner in completely original shape, sleeping for the past 20+ years. I'm surprised about even thinking about bending the tabs, but then, I learn something new here all the time...
 
Kevin, this is a question on your car. Mine was also purchased from the original owner in 1968. The commission number is #58107, so fairly close to yours. My original beads were aluminum. Had to change them by the late 70's because of corrosion from salt on St. Louis roads. Are yours aluminum? And I don't think my tabs were bent over. They were shorter however. The replacements from Leyland were stainless and are still on the car and had much longer tabs.
Tom Lains
TS8651
TS58107
 
The first time I put the fender bead on, I had a terrible time I scratched the paint on the fender. Had that repaired and thought of something to try. I pop riveted the bead to the fenders; spread the fenders to put the nose on. Works like a charm; I think I did that about 8 or 9 years ago. I now do not worry about scratching the fenders; I had the nose off 4 or 5 time in that period.
 
Hello, Tom, good to meet a fellow 58XXX owner! I hate to say, I don't know if they're aluminum or stainless; if I had to guess, I'd say stainless. I bought a replacement strip on eBay, for the short piece below the taillight, but I was able to fix the old one instead, so I kept it on. The unused eBay one appears to be stainless as well; it has this #: 554172, which corresponds to Wing Bead Assembly, Rear (short). It has the same look as all my other beading, but you're right. These tabs are 2 inches long, which is much longer than I remember the original tabs being. So now I don't know how to answer your question, but I'm sure it's all the original beading. If you can tell the difference, please let me know!
 
My TR3A came new with stainless steel beading. When I did my restoration from 1987 to 1990, I didn't notice any difference in the length of the tabs. I put them in and bent them over just like the original ones. I never lost any points at any TRA judged concours shows over the last 16 years because of this. Two weeks ago, I was awarded 2nd in the TR3A class with 89 points having driven over 89,000 miles in 16 years.

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A, TS 27489 LO

https://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthreads/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/1919/ppuser/4127
 
Hi guys!

May I offer my .02 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif??

One of the secrets Ilearned a LONG /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif time ago is tape the tabs with electical tape PRIOR to trying to install the beading!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/angel.gif

I am used to Big Healeys where we have 4 of them suckers. PITA /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thirsty.gif

After you have fender just barely snugged you can then pull a tab at a time down with pliers (tabs are tape protected /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/angel.gif) and then when you are satisfied with the bead positioning tighten the fender bolts and bend the tabs.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
Ed
 
[ QUOTE ]
Hi guys!

One of the secrets Ilearned a LONG /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif time ago is tape the tabs with electical tape PRIOR to trying to install the beading!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/angel.gif
Ed

[/ QUOTE ]

Great Idea, Ed. I didn't scratch my paint when I put new ones in but It was a pain and required good help. The electical tape would also help keep them in place in the areas where the tabs like to slip or where you can't reach them to bend them down.
 
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