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Choke knob

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M

Money_Pit

Jedi Hopeful
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A novice question regarding the choke knob.

Can one just replace the knob or do you have to purchase the knob and cable such as part # 734-190 in moss's catalogue?



DT
 
You are not the only one. I'd like to know also.

I have a perfectly good original cable with the original turn to lock feature but the knob is missing. Some years ago I replaced it with a Moss cable. The Moss does not have the original twist lock feature. The Moss knob also has a strange thread which does not fit the original cable.

As near as I can tell, the original cable & knob are threaded something odd like maybe 2-BA. This strange thread is 4.7mm diameter & 31.3 TPI. I too would like to find a knob with the correct thread to fit this cable.

I have considered buying a 2-BA tap & re-threading the Moss knob to fit my original cable, but not sure it would work. The original cable has a pretty short thread length.
D
 
Thanks Dave

Well from all the pictures I've seen of restored Healey's with new choke knobs I'm sure someone can set us in the right direction. Mine is for a BJ7 which I guess now is replaced by a BJ8 knob or cable setup.

DT
 
gents, no you can "not" just replace the knob, just went through this with my bj7. you must purchase the cable with the knob attached. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif
 
Ask Bill Bolton. He might have this type of original part in one of his parts bins. His email is tricarb@aol.com
 
Thanks Anthony and Tracy

I've sent Bill an email and will be ready to order knob and cable if necassary. Thanks again for input!

DT
 
[ QUOTE ]
Thanks Dave

Well from all the pictures I've seen of restored Healey's with new choke knobs I'm sure someone can set us in the right direction. Mine is for a BJ7 which I guess now is replaced by a BJ8 knob or cable setup.
DT

[/ QUOTE ]
You prompted me to finally tackle the problem.
My good original turn to lock cable (BN2) with missing knob was indeed a 31.3 tpi thread. The Moss knob thread was close but nothing standard either.

I ran a 10-32 die down on the cable end, a 10-32 tap into the knob, & although the threads are not perfect, they are more than good enough to hold the knob & a lock nut. Now I have an original turn to lock cable with a somewhat close to original knob. In the end, the knob was all that was used from the Moss cable assembly. Not a perfect match, but pretty close. Polished & lubed the inner cable wire & everything works easy & smooth.
D
 
Dave

When you set your mind to something you don't mess around. I've checked a couple of suppliers and AH Spares has CHOKE written on the knob they supply but I'm sure I've seen some with just the C for choke on the knob. Anyone know which one is right?

DT
 
DT,

The guidelines say the BJ7 has the large white C but I've seen a couple supposedly original BJ7's with the smaller "choke" knob with serrated edges. Might have something to do with being an early or later BJ7 since the BJ8's have the "choke" with serrated edges.

Cheers,
John
 
gents, the one in my 63 bj7 is original it has the word "choke" stamped in the center with an etched/stamped circle around the knobs outer perimeter, both white in color or spooze to be white. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif dont know if they used a dif. one in the production sequence. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif
 
Well Gents, Yes you can replace the Knob.However,I do not know of a source for the knob alone.Similarly, its more trouble to replace knob than it is to just replace a new choke wire with the correct knob, do not remove the outer cable from the car and you will be good to go. The correct knob is as defined by; 7777---Keoke

P.S. at one time the only choke Moss stocked was the one with a "C" on it I thought it was MIckey Mouse. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
I have a couple of origiinal choke cables in good condition with the exception of the white paint is faded out, or worn away. anyone know where they can be "restored"?
 
[ QUOTE ]
I have a couple of origiinal choke cables in good condition with the exception of the white paint is faded out, or worn away. anyone know where they can be "restored"?

[/ QUOTE ]

----- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif-Yep!---- In the Garage Late at night----- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif-----Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
If the lettering is engraved (below the surface) as it should be, clean the knob, THOROUGHLY fill in the letters with white enamel. Small brush works well, doesn't have to be precicely within the letters. After the paint starts to set, wipe the excess off the raised part with a Q-Tip SLIGHTLY moistened with thinner. Too wet, & it all comes off.

You might have to experiment a bit to get things just right, but if you screw up, it's easy to wash the knob with thinner & try again. The same works well on all knobs, even gear shifts. I have used this method on gun engraving for years. Testor's model paint works well & comes in all colors.
D
 
dave that is "zacherley" what i did but first i used a little bit of white compound and a small round drumel buffing disk pad to polish my knob, ah that is to shine the knob up first. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
Note that the original choke knobs (and other instrument panel knobs) are bakelite material and can be refinished with dye, shoe polish, wax treatments depending on the condition of the bakelite (an internet search on bakelite refinishing should lead to step by step instructions). For refilling the engraved letters I use about the same technique as Dave and our resident poet Ant-o-Knee /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif except I let the paint dry overnight and then use a fine cotton rag (old T-shirt) pulled tight over the finger and thinner to remove the extra white. If it appears the paint in the groove is getting too soft, I'll stop and let it dry before using the rag/thinner again. Attached is a picture of an original BJ7 choke knob that I refurbished that shows the 'serrated edge' and knob graphics. The 'blurred' looking graphics are from low light/hand-held camera .. not the paint fill! BTW, the choke was the trickiest of the knobs to fill because the depth of engraving was the quite low compared to the others.

Cheers,
John

choke.jpg
 
Clean knob well especialy crack so new paint sticks well. Dab white paint in crack. Wipe off the extra carefully and quickly. Wait 24 hours, vola, new knob.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Clean knob well especialy crack so new paint sticks well. Dab white paint in crack. Wipe off the extra carefully and quickly. Wait 24 hours, vola, new knob.

[/ QUOTE ]

Yep, Except we respray the knob black and polish it which makes it a bit more difficult to do.--Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif


Hey John! your knob looks nice--- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
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