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Tips

Choke Cable Really, Relly Hard to pull out

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Jim_Gruber

Jim_Gruber

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Anyone got any tips on why my choke cable is so frigging hard to pull out? Is it friction where the twist to lock is behind the dash, and a little lubrication in there will cure the problems, or is it typically a wear condition up at the carbs, that is preventing the pull down on the SU's. I'm to the point where it's all I can do to pull on the choke to get Bugsy started. And at other times it pulls out easily. It goes back in certainly very easily.
 
Jim, pull the entire cable out, including the housing, and then remove the inner cable itself. Clean the inside of the housing with carb or brake cleaner. Inspect the inner cable for fraying or corrosion. Make sure the choke linkage at the carbs is moving freely.
Lightly lube the cable with some dry lube, such as graphite or dry Moly. Reassemble the cable and make sure everything operates smoothly.
Reinstall and check again.
Jeff
 
Mine's really hard, too. I haven't tried the simple option of relubricating it, but one thing that helps is pressing the gas pedal a little while pulling it out. This takes a bit of the load off it. I think the spridget chokes are kinda heavy, even under the best circumstances. You're pulling against a pair of pretty strong springs.
 
Interesting about the gas pedal. Does seem to help. Well I tried a drop of 3 in 1 oil right on the cable as it comes out of the dash. Works easier now but I've lost twist to lock. Rotate knob and it will not stay there anymore. Now will have to fight to idle problem as choke will not stay out. Time to find a clothes pin.
 
We talking Bugeye here? If so the choke does not have twist lock, the inter wire is bent a bit like a mesa to provide tension on the cable against the outer sheath.

This is how the real from the factory ones came.
 
Jack,

Just a future Bugeye in disguise as I graft a Bugeye Bonnet onto my '68 Sprite. Metalwork going on all weekend fixing rusted out cross pieces in lower part of bonnet. This bonnet was on a race car a one time and had more than its share of bondo, dents, and straightening done in the past.

Lower rear section of bonnet on both sides has had a replacement panel fit in place and pop rivetted. Triangular piece, last 6 " of the bonnet on both sides replaced where totally rotted out. Needed to cut out and replace and reinforce portions of the valence and inner reinforcing members that were swiss cheese after I removed about a lb. of bondo. Needed to add some structure in that area as bonnet will be forward hinged when I am done.

Now that that is complete, need to continue process of straightening and pounding out dents. Learned that brazing to rusty tin can type metal causes even bigger holes to appear. Oh the fun things we do to exercise our brains for engineering fun and games.
 
Okies, bugeye choke tips do not apply, lol.

Maybe someone can use the info.
 
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