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TR2/3/3A Checking steering box End Play?

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K

karls59tr

Obi Wan
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I am a little confused as to the proper way to set the end play. The steering box is in a vice with the worm and bearings,shims and end plate in position. The magnetic base dial gauge is mounted and ready to go. To get an initial reading do I insert the rocker shaft into the worm gear(just hand held not with the cover bolted on?) and move it in the direction of the dial gauge to see what reading I get then remove shims as recquired until I get a zero reading?
Also for a split column shaft should the bushing at the split be installed when I do the measurement?
 
I added a shim (to get some end play), then used the rocker shaft and loosely assembled Pitman arm to force the worm both ways to measure the play. It will naturally want to stay in the middle so just going one way won't give you an accurate measurement. Once you've got a measurement, subtract shims equal to the measurement or a bit more (the shims only come in .0024" steps) and you're done.

Didn't occur to me to try it before installing the upper bushing, but might be better that way. Normally wouldn't make a difference, I think, but if either the tube or shaft are a bit bent, it might affect the end float measurement.
 
Just to be clear, you don't need the rocker shaft at all to set the end play. The dial indicator should be on the far end of the shaft. You can use a screwdriver or anything between the worm and housing to try to shift the shaft in/out to see the end-play. The bushing doesn't impede the end-play measuring as much as the next adjustment -setting the rocker tension by finding the sweet-spot/tight-spot in the center of the worm. My shaft wasn't bent, but appeared so since the worm wasn't exactly centered on the end of the shaft. (With the worm bearings snug, spinning the shaft shows the far end -near the coupling- to spin in a concentric or oblong circle instead of the center staying centered.) So, in my case, finding the "sweet-spot" would have been impossible with the busing installed.
 
Well 14-16 lb torque makes the shaft too tight to turn by hand so I backed the bolts off somewhat.
Can I set the rocker tension (adjustment screw) with the box in the vice to see if there is a slight tension at the center. I have a spare steering wheel I can mount to turn the worm shaft?Would this help to at all to find the "sweet-spot" or should I just wait till the whole assembly is bolted into the car and then set the adjustment screw?
If I seal the brass shim at the gasket with a thin layer of sealant is this going to affect the end play much?
 
The end float must be set first, and it will be almost impossible to find the sweet spot of the worm once everything is together. The sweet spot is small, and barely perceivable on the bench. The added resistance of the bushing (which is very small) is greater than the sweet spot.

If you had to back off the end cap bolts to be able to turn the shaft/wheel, you don't have enough shims -in other words not enough end play. The end cap is prone to distortion from over tightening with too few shims between it and the housing. Once bent, it has a greater tendency to leak the oil that needs to be in there for normal use. If you decide to use some sealant between each or any of the shims, the amount of sealant that doesn't squeeze out will add to the thickness of the shim, and increase the end float. Since you had to back off the cap screws, it sounds like the 14-16lbs was directly pressing against the bearings, instead of having tension between the cap and housing. The end float is the space left over after the cap screws are torqued, between the bearings and races. As you have seen or can imagine, too little end float can make the wheel impossible to turn. Excessive end float will cause excessive steering wheel float -meaning the steering wheel will have to move a far amount right or left, before any of that motion is transferred to the steering. The end float is a delicate balance and worth the time it takes to set properly.
 
For sure something is wrong, there shouldn't be enough drag in those bearings to notice even with .001" preload (negative end play).
Did you have the bolts torqued down when checking end float?

I would definitely set the peg adjustment on the bench, and without the steering wheel. Just turn the shaft with your fingers.

Might depend on what sealant you use; but with Hylomar I couldn't tell the difference with or without.
 
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