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GT6 Chassis color

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Bob Buxbaum

Jedi Hopeful
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After using Google, I still want input on underbody, firewall, and chassis colors. My GT6 was originally white, and will be again. The majority of search results had the firewall in body color as well as the chassis from the firewall forward.

I will not be building a concourse car, but a "correct" stock carr as a driver. What color should the underbody be (although I plan on covering it in "rockchip" versus actual undercoating as there will be seam sealer at all welded areas) as well as the frame itself?
 
My '67 is also white. It is white everywhere including the frame. Welcome back!
 
dklawson said:
My '67 is also white. It is white everywhere including the frame. Welcome back!
Click to expand...

Still original paint or restored? Since my frame will be media blasted I will be free to apply whatever I want. Powder coat is a matter of how competent the person is, and sometimes can be too glossy. POR 15 is available in gloss white, but will be a bit more white than the original color, but done right is indestructible.
 
Our car has been repainted several times since new and has always been in the family. When I made a similar inquiry to yours I was told the frame was body colored, not black.

I have mixed feelings about POR. It sticks well to rough surfaces (sandblasted, heavily etched, or rust converted). However, it easily peals off of smooth surfaces like those left by bare, sound sheet metal. Painting over POR can also be tricky. I have tried a couple of their primers to apply over POR and had mixed results. To each his own.

Were I undertaking another project today, I would consider sandblasting the frame followed by epoxy primer and a topcoat to match the body. Again... to each his own.
 
dklawson said:
Our car has been repainted several times since new and has always been in the family. When I made a similar inquiry to yours I was told the frame was body colored, not black.

I have mixed feelings about POR. It sticks well to rough surfaces (sandblasted, heavily etched, or rust converted). However, it easily peals off of smooth surfaces like those left by bare, sound sheet metal. Painting over POR can also be tricky. I have tried a couple of their primers to apply over POR and had mixed results. To each his own.

Were I undertaking another project today, I would consider sandblasting the frame followed by epoxy primer and a topcoat to match the body. Again... to each his own.
Click to expand...

Understood on all points. The chassis will go back to bare metal again. I did not neutralize the soda (at the time, I didn't know) so the self etching primer is not holding. Plus, surface rust has reoccurred. No surprise there. If bare metal scuffed with 200 grit and fully prepped with the POR treatments, the 15 will hold. Since it is available in white, if use POR 15 it will go on the frame. The interior panels (the original non-visible surfaces) will be cleaned, and then I have to decide on spray on rust neutralizer of POR-15. The POR 15 will certainly stick to old sheet metal because there is plenty of surface "texture" due to aging and will stick to it. If I use spray neutralize, it is porous to humidity so must be painted with non water based paint. So, that means rattle can primer, sealer, and paint. The welded surfaces will be handled with weld through primer.
 
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