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Changing Motor Mounts

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Royal_58

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I have been hearing a clunking sound from the tunnel area just aft of the gearbox. It sounds like a u-joint or the driveshaft is bumping the tunnel. I suspect that the motor mounts and the gearbox pad need replacing . The old ones have sagged and the left front one has seperated.

Is there a nifty trick to swapping out the mounts? It looks like the motor can be lifted slightly with a lift, any pointers before I start?

Its amazing where troubleshooting a rough runing engine can lead :smile:
 
Hello, Duke, I did this a while ago on my car, and it wasn't too difficult. Instead of using the lifting eyes, I laid a block of wood under the oil pan and used a trolley jack to do the lifting, ISTR I attached the new motor mounts to the engine, and then eased everything on to the chassis. It couldn't have been too difficult; I had no helper at the time. I also made a note of location and number of metal shims originally used.... Of course, I had the front apron off, so it made disassembly and assembly a little easier... Good luck!
 
I also started hearing a noise under the bonnet and noticed my carb filters were hitting the inner fender, ah ha I say to myself I need new motor mounts. Kevin is correct I did the install the same way. Good Luck Duke!
 
Here is what I did, because I'm a worrier.

I did one side at a time, and kept the "opposite" side from the one I was currently working on still bolted, but I loosened that opposite bolt until it was almost off. The reason is that without a hoist if you can't get it all back together, that jack under the pan may not allow the needed movement and fix.

As for the jack, I favored the side I was working on so that the engine tilted just slightly.

I carefully watched the accelerator shaft behind the engine to make sure I wasn't bending it.

I gooped up the bolt on the new engine mount, as well as the foot of the engine plate, so that when I lowered the engine it would slide down and over the bolt. The geometry on mine did not allow a direct hit with the jack being lowered; the front engine plate foot first hit the bolt in the new mount, then slid over the bolt.

Finally, I had to leave the new mounts a bit loose at first so that I could slide a wedge under the nut and bolt that fastens them into the spring housing. Why? Because I needed the wedge to force the engine mounting bolt to "aim" straight at the target--the hole in the engine plate foot.

Hope this wasn't quite the bore it now seems having composed it. (I must be stalling about work tomorrow).

Good luck.
 
Thanks for the tips! I used a 2x10 under the oil pan and jacked up the engine with a floor jack. My mounts turned out to be in pretty bad shape. The rubber was seperated from the base plates, no wonder I was getting so much movement. The seperated rubber mount actually made it easier to remove the old mounts. Thanks again for the advice.
 
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