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changing gearbox gaskets

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John Loftus

John Loftus

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My gearbox and OD was in good mechanical shape when I started the restoration 3+ years ago. It did leak a bit and because of the red color I know it was the Redline oil, not motor oil. I removed the top plate and one part of the gasket was folded so it missed two holes (leak number 1). Anyway, I would like to pull the bell housing, OD and assorted plates to just replace the gaskets and smear some hylomar on the joint surfaces. I've read the workshop manual but looking for any guidance/tips to make this job go smoothly.

Cheers,
John
 
Hi John, Find some short 4X4's and stand the tranny up on the bellhousing,unbolt the OD and lift STRAIGHT UP! do not twist it set it down very carefully and do not disturb it.This helps keep the sector plates in the clutch alinged with the mainshaft for reassembly. Now draw a marker pencil line across the end of the layshaft and the housing.This lets you check and be sure the lay shaft stays in its proper orientation.Now you can pull the bellhousing but be carefull that the little rubber shift limiting bumper in a cavity just ahead of the shift rods does not fallout.Hope its there too.You are now on your own except go sparingly with the sealer. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif---Keoke
 
Hi Keoke,

Perfect .. just the type of advice I was looking for! Would it be better to replace the OD before moving on to the bell housing?

Cheers,
John

p.s. just restocked the fridge with Newcastle .. come on down and I'll put you to work! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thirsty.gif
 
Hi John,
You probably saw this in the archives, replace the bellhouse to tranny bolts. When I tried to reuse mine, they stretched and ruined several threads in the trans casing. Wound up having to use something like 6 heli-coils. I think 35’lbs. of torque is beyond the limit of this size bolt unless it is a grade 8.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Hi Keoke,

Perfect .. just the type of advice I was looking for! Would it be better to replace the OD before moving on to the bell housing?--------------NO DO OD last

Cheers,
John

p.s. just restocked the fridge with Newcastle .. come on down and I'll put you to work! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thirsty.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

I would love the trip and goodies but I just discovered I have to replace the Motor MTS in my BJ8- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cryin.gif---Keoke
 
[ QUOTE ]
Hi Keoke,

Perfect .. just the type of advice I was looking for!

[/ QUOTE ]
Hi John. I assume you're planning to replace both end oil seals as well. Also, I had a little difficulty getting the OD back on due to the cam follower hitting the cam lobe in the OD. I found that by inserting a fine wire up and around the cam follower I was able to slide the OD back in place then remove the wire. Also, since you have the OD out of the car replace the little OD relay bump stop with a good teflon one.
Good luck
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
I only had limited time to work on the gearbox this Sunday but pulled the bell housing and seals at both ends. The seals are toast.. very hard/brittle so new ones going in. The rubber shift limiting bumper was there but also hard and brittle. Seems to be N/A from Moss but making up a replacement should be easy .. just need to find the right material. I wanted to remove the clutch fork to check the bushings but the taper pin doesn't want to budge. Currently the play is minor so I might just leave it alone (I was using a punch from the access hole on the backside to drive the pin towards the front but no movement so far)

Cheers,
John

p.s. .. hey Keoke! how did the Motor Mnts go? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
Well, I did end up getting the taper pin out but what a pain. The tail end of the taper pin stuck out about 1/4" and repeated blows with a punch had mushroomed the end. So I cut the tail off flush with the fork using a hacksaw blade. I wired the fork steady to keep it from flopping around and laid the bell housing face down on the floor. I was concerned about stressing the aluminum bushing mounts in the bell housing with the hammering so rigged a piece of wood to fit between the fork and the floor (notched the wood and used some hot glue to keep the wood support in place). After about 10 minutes of careful hammering (if there is such a thing) it still didn't come loose. Plan B .. used a small dia. drill and proceeded to drill through the length of the pin. Got 3/4 of the way through and the bit broke off inside . aaaarrrrrrrr! Back to hammering and after another 10 minutes if finally came out. Should be receiving new bushings and taper pins from McMaster Carr today. #2 stainless taper pins come in packs of 10 so if anyone needs one let me know! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
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