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Tips
Tips

MGB Changing clutch hose - tips?

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drooartz

drooartz

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I've heard that changing the clutch hose is complicated, and I've got to do the one on my MGB. I looked at it from underneath the car, and it didn't look that challenging. What am I missing? Are there any tips to doing this with a minimum of fuss, muss, and bother?
 
Don't recall anything particularly tricky. Bleeding sometimes presents a challenge, but as long as the bleeder port is above the inlet, you should be fine.

Oh - though you may already know to do this - take the cap off the master and put some saran wrap over the opening and put the cap back on before disconnecting the hose. :wink:
 
Drew,
Nothing particularly difficult about changing the hose and bleeding is what you would expect. I added a remote bleeder when I changed mine out and it really makes a difference for us old folks. You can see it next to the heater blower...cheap and easy!
Rut
 

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I cut the flex hose off from the bottom then start to disassemble the line. You can get a socket on from the bottom if the hose is removed. You have to crack the steel line loose and then with a helper or pair of vise grips or wedge a wrench in there the rest is pretty easy. Trying to get a wrench on the big nut just under the steel line is a bear and no room to actually crank on it with the starter in the way. It can go real easy or be a tough job.
Bob
 
Mine was the tough job type. Used a crow-foot wrench on a 3/8" extension, and seven or eight other wrenches. Of course, I had no idea what I was doing, and that was before I knew that I was allowed to just cut the hose at the bottom. But if I got it done, it must be possible to do!
 
Bob's method is the quickest way. Put some "loose juice" in the fitting at the chassis ahead of the task, it may help. And the plastic wrap thing Brer Mick suggested will minimize fluid loss.
 
I think you will find that it's not quite that simple with a right hand drive vehicle. The steering column might be in the way cutting down on the clearances. Yes, cutting the hose does simplify getting the bottom nut loose.
 
Drew, did you change that hose yet? I'm thinking its a good excuse to leave the valley and get some mt air.
 
Haven't done it yet. The car is stored at a friend's house, and I haven't been able to get back to it yet. Hoping (maybe) to get it closer to home this weekend, depends on the weather and if I can arrange a storage unit for one of the cars. Too many cars, too few garage spaces. :smile:

You in SLC these days?
 
I am. Sorry it took so long to catch my spinning head. :smile: My garage is off 7200. Just west of I 15.
I'm hoping to start my project in the next few days for the first time
 
I just finished this job on my 1972 LHD MGB.

While I did not remove the starter, it would have made the task somewhat easier.

I, too, cut the old hose which allowed the use of a socket over the remainder of the assembly.

Don't forget to use a flare wrench on the clutch hard line when loosening the assembly (I had a hard time getting an open end wrench in on the lock nut on top...I simply unscrewed the partial assembly from below while kepping the flare wrench on the fitting on the hard line...you don't want to twist or kink this line!

If you've not replaced your clutch m/c and slave cylinder....now might be a good time to do so. You're already in up to you elbows...might as well do the complete job now.

Be sure to flush ALL of the old fluid out of the system as preventative maintenance.

Note that most new slave cylinders come with the bleed valve inserted in the hole where the flexible hole needs to go. Some folks don't realize this...and wonder why they cannot get the system to bleed.
 
WillR said:
I am. Sorry it took so long to catch my spinning head. :smile: My garage is off 7200. Just west of I 15.
I'm hoping to start my project in the next few days for the first time
Click to expand...

Glad you made it! We should connect one of these days.
 
rick_ingram said:
If you've not replaced your clutch m/c and slave cylinder....now might be a good time to do so. You're already in up to you elbows...might as well do the complete job now..
Click to expand...

I've considered this, as my MC at least is likely original to the car (has a metal reservoir). Moss has a kit for pretty cheap that's the entire deal. Worth considering at least.
 
drooartz said:
I've considered this, as my MC at least is likely original to the car (has a metal reservoir). Moss has a kit for pretty cheap that's the entire deal. Worth considering at least.
Click to expand...

Make sure it's the kit with the TRW/Lucas cylinders/slave...NOT the aftermarket versions.
 
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