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Carb floats SU HS4 on triple carb AH BT7

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Guy Beaty

Freshman Member
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Problem:
First noticed the smell of gas upon starting car. Gas was pumping from the overflow of one carb, and it was discovered that the carb float was full of gas.

Parts ordered:
Moss part # 378-470 w/ shim. When I tried to install these replacement floats, they did not fit up for me; I couldn’t even reinstall the pin #370-060 the fit was so tight.

The solution that I am trying:
I have taken the original float, drilled a small hole in the top, and drained the gas or let it evaporate. I am hoping to either reinstall as is, or to seal the hole and the juncture of the 2 part disk shaped float with an adhesive that is resistant to gas (any suggestions?).

I would welcome any suggestions for a solution to this problem.

Thanks,
Guy Beaty
 
guy beaty, before all other methods of correction fail, call this guy..joe curto inc ,718-762-7878, he da man! sounds as if youve got some wrong parts tell em tony from the academy of aeronautics sent ya. :yesnod:
 
Guy Beaty said:
I would welcome any suggestions for a solution to this problem.
Click to expand...

Guy,

While I don't know a lot about SUs, (With an expert's help) I just rebuilt 4 HD-8s for my car and I got a good look at the floats. They are made from two halves of stamped sheet brass and soldered together at a waist seam. Mine were like a donut and had a hole in the center.

The best and most reliable way to seal the leak and the hole that you drilled is with tin/lead solder. I wouldn't try any other sealants, epoxies, or lead-free solders.

If you are not experienced at soldering, you undoubetedly know someone who is. Ask around.

IF no one can help, almost any jewler or radiator shop can resolder the waist seam and your drilled hole for a few bucks. It's a 4-5 minute job.

Tim
 
Here's the trick on floats.
On old Fords, done this more times than I want to remember.

Drill and drain.
Let dry.
Seal the hole you drilled with solder.
Place in a pan of HOT water, not boiling, as you won't see anything important with all the boiling bubbles.
As the air inside heats up, you will see a stream of bubbles coming out any leaks.
Pick the float out of the pan with tweezers or hemostats, keeping your eye on the leak spot.
I generally use a loupe to verify the exact location of the hole.
When cool, solder this hole shut.
DON'T solder the leak shut when it's hot! When the hot air inside cools, it may collapse the float!

Do it again, as many times as needed to verify no more holes.
 
Hello Guy Beaty,

Welcome to the forum.

As anthony7777 said Joe Curto is the man to talk to.

I wasn't aware there is any adjustment of the float level on the HS4's. They're fixed at manufacture

Hello Cottontop & TOC,

HS4 SU's have plastic floats, sorry about that.

Best regards,

bundyrum.
 
Guy,
You can do basically the same thing with plastic floats, just use a soldering iron to very carefully weld up the plastic hole/crack. Have a good day!

John
 
John_Progess said:
Guy,
You can do basically the same thing with plastic floats, just use a soldering iron to very carefully weld up the plastic hole/crack. Have a good day!

John
Click to expand...
I hope everyone reading this thread pauses to remember that those "cracked" floats may have gas in them before they start any welding???
Patrick
 
If a soldering iron will light off the gas, well, Houston, we have a problem.
 
gents, the basic problem our friend is having is that the earlier model floats were metal later ones plastic for su hs4 carbs, one requires a straight float arm the other has a step/bend on it, also an updated float is now made in a material called "nitrofil", n.o.s. floats are available, from joe curto, moss seems to be having trouble differentiating the parts. simple solution. call "da man". depending on how you want to do it about $14.00 to $20.00 ea. :yesnod: i have no monetary interest involved in joes shop, just a developed friendly working relationship since we graduated from the same aviation school. :savewave:
 
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