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TR5/TR250 Car wont accelerate

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carpecursusII

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Bought new carbs from Paltech and installed. Take the car out and open the throttle, it will run but if I put it to the floor nothing happens. The car will run but the RPM with only come up maybe 50-100, there is no acceleration. The car does not misfire and has pertronix installed. It did this before I installed the new carbs so it seems I'm back to square one. I did check the pump and when I spun the starter fuel came out. The car will idle just fine.

Please bestow some wisdom here

Thanks.
 
It may be a fuel supply problem. Remove the air cleaners and try feeding some fuel directly into the carbs with a squirt bottle or such with the engine running and somebody holding the accelerator down to open the butterflies. If you get an increase from this then start loooking at a restriction in your fuel system/lines.
Charley
 
I've had to clean up after Paltech a couple of times..
There may be some of that media he uses to achieve the bling that he's noted for still in some of the various ports and passageways.
 
Very basic, but since you just put new carbs on did you check to see if the linkage is all hooked up correctly and the butterflys are opening. also make sure the pistons move freely up and down, they should raise with some resistance and lower with a solid clunk at the end when they hit the bottom.
 
Fairly easy test for fuel delivery problems: Get a vacuum test gauge that will also read fuel pressure to at least 5 psi or so. Most of them do, and a vacuum gauge is a handy thing to have around anyway. HF has one that is sometimes on sale for under $10 (but currently listed for $15)
https://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-pump-and-vacuum-tester-93547.html
They should also be readily available from Sears
https://www.sears.com/kd-tools-fuel...p-00999092000P?prdNo=6&blockNo=6&blockType=G6
or your friendly local auto parts store.

Now get a push-on tee connector and a length of fuel line, such that you can connect the gauge near the carbs and lead the line out from under the hood. Prop it up under a windshield wiper so you can read it from the driver's seat; and take a test drive. If the pressure drops to zero when you have the problem, you know you aren't getting enough fuel.

But usually, it's easy enough to distinguish fuel delivery problems. One symptom is that the engine starts to pull when you first open the throttle, and then dies until a short time after you back off the throttle. There's a kind of lag as the float bowls first empty, and then refill. Another symptom is that it will pull to higher rpm when the load is light (eg first gear instead of third). If it always quits at the same rpm, then the problem is most likely elsewhere, like ignition or valve float.
 
Glemon: I have checked those items and have no issue there.

Randall: you have described the symptoms perfectly, I am planning to change out the fuel pump monday and hope that it will solve the problem.
 
Well, don't forget that it could be other things besides a defective pump. My most recent bout of fuel starvation was caused by the hard line being full of crud, probably paint shop dust that eventually settled to the lowest point and stuck there. Blowing air backwards through the line cleared the problem (but turned the fuel in the tank black). ISTR the TR6 has soft lines coming out of the tank under the car, which can fail internally and be blocked, even if they aren't leaking and look more or less OK on the outside.
 
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