Can't seem to get the ignition tuned

[TRnorwegian]

I've read the point gap should be 36, but not able to open it to more than 25.
And the distributor not willing to be adjusted any more clockwise.
I've booked a professional to look at it tomorrow, and hope to find out what's wrong then.

The gas tank is rusty, and I'm not sure the new filter will take care of all the small particles. Can anything be done except change the tank?

 

[Andrew Mace]

I've read the point gap should be 36, but not able to open it to more than 25.

Are you citing millimeter measurements? Point gap normally is stated at .015" or between .014-.016".
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]And the distributor not willing to be adjusted any more clockwise.[/QUOTE]It could be the distributor and gear was out at some point, and the gear was put back in one tooth off?

 

[Moseso]

TRN --
I believe you've misread something. Point gap is supposed to be .015" (0.4mm) It might be something slightly different than that, but .036" is WAY wrong

 

[poolboy]

Probably,it's the tach cable that is preventing any further clockwise movement of the dizzy.
Which probably means it doesn't need to be advanced past that point.

 

[TR3driver]

Could you be thinking of the plug gap? Even there, I would recommend staying with the stock .025" (0.63mm).

A paper element fuel filter (which is what it appears you have) will capture particles much smaller than will do any harm. So the only issue should be if the filter gets clogged (in which case, replace it). If that proves to be a problem, you might consider finding an add-on sediment bowl to put in front of the filter.

<inanity deleted>

 

[poolboy]

BTW, rotating the distributor body clockwise will retard the spark. I believe it should more farther that direction than shown in your photo ... look to see what is hitting and stopping it.

The rotor turns Counterclockwise, Randall, so clockwise rotation of the dizzy is advancing the timing.

 

[TRnorwegian]

So the rust particles are not my most immediate problem? I drained the bottom 15 litres to remove water (which was quite visible from the extracted volume).
Does someone recognize this fuel pump?

I exchanched the coil to a higher effect new one, since it seemed the old were giving too little, coming and going. Got the car running half-heartedly, but something is not right when it comes to the distributor/ ignition, and it seems worth having a more trained eye look into it since it can be several things.

I added also a new ground connection between the battery and the chassis, which reduced the glowing/sparking on the starter engine. Nevertheless, it stopped working at last, and is on the list tomorrow for the mechanic.

The seals on top lids of the carbs (Weber 40DCOE151) is made of cork and might be sucking false air. Think I need new ones.

 

[DNK]

Facet fuel pump.
Noisy bugger

 

[Brosky]

TR6 distributors do NOT have teeth. There is a slot on each side of the center shaft that will only fit one way in the drive gear.

Note the driven gear in the bottom right of this picture of my disassembled distributor.

The tach cables are notoriously short on these cars (why they can't be an inch or two longer is beyond me, but they are what they are) so you may have to disconnect the tach cable to get the timing set properly and look to reroute the cable to make it fit.

 

[Andrew Mace]

TR6 distributors do NOT have teeth. There is a slot on each side of the center shaft that will only fit one way in the drive gear....

Right. But that dog drive goes into a gear that does have teeth, and that gear can be put in as many positions as it has teeth. That was my point: that someone might have put the gear back in the wrong position -- maybe just one or two teeth off -- and that keeps the distributor from moving as it might need to, especially when you factor in tach cables and such.

 

[Brosky]

Absolutely correct!! A very good point and taken well on my end Andy. That could be possible, but looking at his pictures, that looks like he's just about at the area where my tach cable gets tight as well, although I am slightly further clockwise of his. I've had to fiddle with the cable from time to time when swapping distributors around.

Anders, did you ever take that distributor apart to clean it up and fix that wiring inside as was suggested in an earlier thread?

 

[TRnorwegian]

Nope. Haven't dared messing too much with it. With a lousy supply of parts, it seemed useless when not able to replace stuff. The workshop sits on a better supply and will probably also detect what is due for replacement.
I'll give you an update when their verdict is in.

 

[Tinster]

I've read the point gap should be 36, but not able to open it to more than 25.
And the distributor not willing to be adjusted any more clockwise.
I've booked a professional to look at it tomorrow, and hope to find out what's wrong then.

The gas tank is rusty, and I'm not sure the new filter will take care of all the small particles. Can anything be done except change the tank?


<span style="color: #000000">Anders- Here is a photo of my dizzy.
I set the points at .015" and my spark plugs at .025"
When functional; my car runs very well at these settings
and starts instantly..

The Triumph experts will jump in and explain to you the errors
I have made in my dizzy set up but it's a decent photo
as a starting point for you.

In my car, I had to remove the rusty fuel tank, remove all the fuel
lines, removed the fuel pump and filter and replace everything
with new. I had to remove the carbs and clean them several times.
There are liquid tank liners you can purchase but they do no not
ship tp Puerto Rico.

good luck.

dale

PS: That engine roared like a tiger when I was in the car.</span>

 

[RonMacPherson]

Fuel pump noise can be greatly diminished by mounting that Facet pump to rubber cushioned studs. I recommend some old 123/124 MB aircleaner housing mounting studs... I know the studs are found other places also(MB fuel filter bracket kits, etc.) But the aircleaner mount is probably the easiest for any parts house to access in their fiches/catalogues/computers.

 

[TRnorwegian]

Thanks Ron, I'll try that as soon as the car is up and running.

And Dale, your dizzy looks squeeky clean. Almost as it left the factory last week.

Several of my countrymen are trying to persuate me into a modernized dizzy, magnetic or electronic. Claims they're more reliable. Any experiences?

Here's today's picture, when leaving the "trailer queen" at the workshop. Proof it was all in one piece when going in there.

 

[tdskip]

The "123" Distributors seem to be very popular in your area, not too many of them here. You can also keep the same distributor but swap in an electronic ignition.

Others will offer more info and ideas.

Let us know how the inspection/repairs go.

 

[hondo402000]

you should be able to gap the points pretty wide without rotating the distributor, dont know the gap the only reason you rotate the distributor is when you set the timing,(Advance or retart) maybe thats the reason its running badly, although I have pertronix system, and have not moved or checked the timing on my car in a few years it still cranks and runs very well

 

[gardener]

Hello Anders, when I received my oxcart , I get mad and start pulling wires and getting rid of a lot of extras and upgrades for the age of the car ,with the bad , the good ones get loose, so I had to start putting togetter, also there are some failures in high and also some in low revolutions,in one ride he make a explotion that blow the exaust apart form the pipe, so I had to weld it back. I change point, condenser, coil and spark plugs.now he's running better. And I do this myself despite I am not a mechanic, I am a Bonsaist and a Garden center owner, so I tell you all this because sometime you can do it better than a mechanic and for less way way less. Last time I was worried because some of my gauges doesn't work at all, just 3" of wire and 2 connector solve the problem. Be aware this cars are so easy to work, that a gardener can work it!!Next work,refill the shocks and fix an exhaust leak the little noise is making me crazy!!

 

[TRnorwegian]

I promised you an update to all of you helping me out here:

So, after I tried the most obvious first line of defence: Draining the fuel tank, getting rid of all humidity and months of condensation, changing the fuel filter, grounding the chassis, changing the plugs, checking the dizzy, trying to adjust the ignition, point gap etc. I had to throw in the towel and let an experienced (old british cars) workshop take over (I know, Gardener...).

They used 4,5 hours and got the machine running nicely. Major things:
- Changed all moving parts in the dizzy.
- Cut away the hose running from valve head cover to carbs and brake servo. Which messed up the vacuum in both the carbs and the servo (picture).
- Tuned the carbs and ignition.

Some minor things remain (i.e. starter engine probably due for replacement), but I am now able to actually drive the car as intended. And that I intend to do, before I roll up the sleeves for the next chapter. Tuesday it's going into a check-up for receiving norwegian registration plates. Have to get the horn and wipers going by then. And preferably the starter.

And Dale, you were dead right - the engine sounds really strong. Even these mechanics commented on it. These engines really sounds better than any modern car stereo. Or V8s for that matter.