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I'm having a problem getting the brake line to stop leaking at the caliper. I have the copper washer in place and have tightened the brake line as tight as it will go. It seems to have bottomed out. Moss sells a thicker copper washer so I imagine this is what I would need; however, Moss is closed. I have several old copper washers and could double up if that could stop the problem. What do you think, will two washers per side stop the problem. Don't want to break the line unless I think I can get it to stop leaking.
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TR2/3/3A Caliper brake line
- Thread starter BobbyO
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Randall, I initially assembled it without the washer (forgot it) and it leaked like a sieve. Don't think it bottomed out now that I think of it. I'll try it with a second washer and see if that solves the problem. I also have another problem. When I apply and release the brakes to check for leaks the calipers are so tight on the rotors I cannot move them by hand. Could this be caused by the restrictor valve and, if I remove its insides, should it solve the problem. I don't see any problem being without it.
sp53 Master cylinder is new but could still be a problem I'm sure. Car is on jack stands with wheels off. I'll put a wheel on to see if it makes an appreciable difference. CJD I'll rework my old washers to get them back to "like new". Filling and emptying the reservoir has become a real pain. Hope to get this resolved soon.
TR3driver
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Yes, the restrictor valve could be the problem. When working as intended, it holds a small amount of pressure in the braking system, enough to make the calipers drag.
HF also has a collection of copper washers, but I don't recall there being one in there that would suit the brake calipers. As noted, the washer has to fit into a slight recess.
Workshop manual gives .030" freeplay at the MC pushrod, but in the Lockheed brake section. IMO that's plenty on a car that has the adjustable stops. Worth noting, perhaps, that the stops were deleted on later cars; perhaps to ensure that they couldn't be set too tight.
It's not clear to me that the copper washers have to be dead soft, in fact I don't believe they were soft to begin with. And annealing them will corrode and pit the surface (unless you have some means of doing it with an inert atmosphere). So I just reuse them (assuming they pass visual inspection) and I've never had a problem. Worth noting perhaps that the fellow who makes solid copper head gaskets (Mordy Dunst) has changed his position as well, and now says there is no need to anneal before reuse.
I assume you've followed the discussions on the restrictor valve, so won't repeat that here.
HF also has a collection of copper washers, but I don't recall there being one in there that would suit the brake calipers. As noted, the washer has to fit into a slight recess.
Workshop manual gives .030" freeplay at the MC pushrod, but in the Lockheed brake section. IMO that's plenty on a car that has the adjustable stops. Worth noting, perhaps, that the stops were deleted on later cars; perhaps to ensure that they couldn't be set too tight.
It's not clear to me that the copper washers have to be dead soft, in fact I don't believe they were soft to begin with. And annealing them will corrode and pit the surface (unless you have some means of doing it with an inert atmosphere). So I just reuse them (assuming they pass visual inspection) and I've never had a problem. Worth noting perhaps that the fellow who makes solid copper head gaskets (Mordy Dunst) has changed his position as well, and now says there is no need to anneal before reuse.
I assume you've followed the discussions on the restrictor valve, so won't repeat that here.
Just wanted to thank everyone for all the help. After I installed the copper washers, only the left side was leaking. I added a second copper washer there and all leaking stopped. However, the brakes still locked up when applied so I gutted the restrictor valve and now everything is working as it should. The restrictor valve was definitely a problem. Again, thanks for the help.