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TR6 Buying a 1972 TR6

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Jbws68

Jbws68

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I am thinking about buying a 72 TR6. The SU carbs have the diaphrams bad. How much do they cost? What fluid goes in them? How do I tell if the car is numbers match? Thanks
 
Jbws68, the carbs are Stromburg, the diaphrams are $4 each from Moss Motors, use 20 weight oil (sewing machine) and fill to within 1/4 inch of the inside ring you can see looking down. # matching may require you to get a original write up from England, not sure on that, maybe someone else knows better. Good luck on the buy and you have a great company near you, try TSI, Ted will be happy to help.

Wayne
 
My html is disabled? Thanks for the reply. The 72 has 58000 miles and is in great shape. Value? Also, what brakes are on the 72? Drums and disc? Sewing machine oil?
 
The brakes are disc-drum. The sewing machine oil goes in the top of the Carb where you unscrew the black plactic cap. AS for value, it will range on a really nice one up to $20,000 and up, but we a talking better than new and if it hasn't been redone be prepared to spend a few hundred getting the brakes and seals done, just like any car that sets for a long time.

Wayne
 
Wayne , How do I post a signature pic and when you say disc drum, Do you mean disc front drum rear? this would be the first TR. I think I see the TA in the avatar?
 
Yes on the brakes and as for the picture on the signature, I must admit I get the wife to do all that as I haven't had time to set down and learn all I should on the computer side of life. Post a new thread asking about it and Basil or someone will help. That's not the TA but a Roadster, click on my wedsite in the signature and you can see what it looks like.

Wayne
 
Thanks for the reply and the 49 is very very nice.
 
This may stir some debate, but the "numbers matching" thing isn't as big of a deal for most of us here compared to Muscle cars.

The engine, transmission, and overall car all have numbers, and you can relate those back to what should have been installed at the factory.

It is very common for transmissions, engines and other components to have been swapped between cars and even other models.

I'd make sure to get other opinions before basing a monetary decision on my post, but I don't think the non-concours market as a whole is so concerned with the "number" but instead the condition of the car.
 
I agree with TD, though if you really want to know your best bet is a Heritage Certificate from England. It MIGHT show all the numbers that your car left the assembly line with but then again, it might not.

BTW, 1972's are my favorite TR6. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
Not sure if it really matters all that much the
numbers matchthing.

My 1969ish TR6 vary from 1966 TR4A tranny to 1968
TR250 engine block, to 1969 TR6 windshield tab to
a 1972 TR6 trailing arm.

d
 
My TR250 was rendered from the pieces and parts of many, many TR250s and TR6s, even a TR4A--it's kind of a composite, I guess. I like to believe it has assimilated the spirit, the very essence, of each of these donor cars, and as a result it is strong, strong, STRONG!
 
Congratulations on your acquisition. Based on your questions, I recommend that you contact some of the better vendors and check into getting an owner's manual, as well as a factory manual.

Sewing machine oil is a light oil, typically like 3 in 1 oil (that's what I use. Some peeps use ATF, some 30 weight motor oil.
 
Indeed, numbers rarely match on these cars. They are usually close but in the case of my TR4 there is a spread of 7000 between the engine & body numbers... and the BMIHT certificate ays that's how it was built.

As a new TR owner you might consider joining a local club if there is one in your area, e.g.:

https://snic-braaapp.org/

Forums and national organizations such as the VTR are excellent support but there is nothing like being a part of the local club scene to enjoy your car or get advice/sympathy when you need it.
 
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