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Bumpy ride solves negative camber problem!

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Steve1970

Steve1970

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I know, I know, I am as shocked as you!

This past weekend was the first time I had it out this yr, and the first real punishing ride I've ever given it, in the 12 months that I've owned it. My goal was to verify that the new door window channels I'd installed had significantly reduced door rattle, so I tried hitting every dam bumpy road in town (not too difficult here in the northeast). Wasn't until this morning, humbly taking the garbage out of the garage that I noticed the tr6 was sitting unusually straight! Oh the joy..

Ok, so it remains to be seen if the next bumpy ride doesn't knock the wheels out of alignment again.

I had been contemplating ordering a complete front & rear springs/shocks replacement kit (original setup, not performance) from rimmer bros, along with Good Parts adjustable trailing arm brackets. So I'll be REAL pleased if the rear wheels do in fact stay aligned since it would be saving me major $$.
 
If you order the new stuff now, it may be there in time to see the sagging of the springs.
I wouldn't count on the change lasting. But then, it's British.
 
ahhhhh.. so the thing is stitting in the garage for 5 months, springs (which could be original for all i know) start to sag, giving it the negative camber. take it out for a nice bouncy ride, putting the 'spring' back in the springs and the negative camber goes away. new springs, i can handle that (financially)
 
Did you check to see if a friend may have put the rear end up on jackstands? :laugh:
 
Sometimes I don't finish what I set out to do in a very timely manner, so here I am five months later with the result...

The new springs and shocks has apparently resolved my negative camber problem. Rear wheels are sitting proud and straight, in fact the whole car looks straighter from behind.

I'm working on replacing the front suspension now, got the old front shocks out last night.. man what a joke. There is NO resistance or 'bounce back' to those old shocks. Can't wait to see how she rides with the new kyb's.

I've got two question regarding the rear shocks:

1: The arms on the old lever shocks can be moved up/down but they don't automatically return back to their original position, is this correct behavior for the lever shocks? Was going to put them on ebay but only if they are functioning correctly.

2: The new shocks are the kyb tube conversions. I noticed that when I push down hard on the rear bumber there is a scraping noise coming from the shaft within the tube of the shocks. Has anyone else experienced this noise too?

Thanks, -Steve
 
Steve: I am considering the tube shoke coversion. Do you mind if I ask which one of the many conversion kits did you buy? Also, what size tires are you running? Do you have stock wheels?

Thanks
 
angelfj said:
Steve: ...which one of the many conversion kits did you buy? Also, what size tires are you running? Do you have stock wheels?
Click to expand...

It was the KYB tube conversion from BP Northwest:
https://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/dd/ee/7814

I have stock wheels and Coker P185R15 tires (which was the original size I believe).

Did a little research on the conversion kits. Far as I can tell, pretty much boils down to the performance required for how hard you drive your car. I purposely don't accelerate hard (e.g. when taking corners, or on takeoff) so I didn't see the need for some of the other more pricey conversions out there. Therefore I went with the KYBs, which also had some pretty good feedback if you google.

By the way, the KYB kit was a breeze to install.

Good luck! -Steve
 
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