• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Bugeye wiring question [last one - really!]

Share this page

T

tdskip

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
I'm trying to get past my mental block on wiring here - so thanks for the help!

My fuel pump is current directly wired into the fuse block as shown in the picture. To get the fuel pump running I needed to connect an alligator clip wire to B and A3 terminals. It worked fine like that for about two months, but then earlier this week the fuse blew and now it connecting the clips to B and A3 does not work.

Ideally I'd just wire the fuel pump to the Ignition switch, but that wiring is not stock and not working properly. Starter and plugs are always hot and do not need the combination switch to be turned on.

If I am willing to simply disconnect the battery whenever I am done driving the car, could I move the fuel pump connection to A3?

Thanks again! (I really want to drive her for a bit before I start really digging in).
 

Attachments

  • 228824-bugeyefuelpump.JPG
    228824-bugeyefuelpump.JPG
    22.3 KB · Views: 108
You have replaced the fuse I assume?

Connect the pump anyplace you have a hot wire. Don't forget to disconnect when you are finished.
 
Are they? Test with a light bulb or a tester or when you rub the pump wire across it what happens, a small spark or the pump works. In worse case go direct to batt. terminal.
 
Well it seems kind of obvious when you put it like that - grin. Funny how simply things get hard when you are afraid of them.

I found a terminal that works fine, so I'm off to get a switch to control the pump.

Thanks Jack!
 
There ya go. Let us know how it goes.

My moto: If it does not work now, whats to loose by messing with it.
 
Not knowing how Bugeye fuses are numbered I have a suggestion and question.

When you say the plugs are always hot... do you mean that the coil is always getting power even with the ignition turned off? If so, this is really, really not good for the coil. Ignition coils aren't meant to be on all the time and will get quite hot if you happen to leave the engine stopped when the points are closed.

Now assuming you don't mean the coil is always on and that it looses power when the ignition is turned off, I'd connect the fuel pump to the high-side of the ignition coil. This was the common place to connect electric fuel pumps on cars like my Mini. It's also wher the aftermarket electric pump is connected on my GT6.
 
Think it is not a bugeye, someone had a bad ign switch and etc etc. He was just trying to get it running a bit. He has lots of electrical things to do. Like a new ign switch which will also fix the pump prob.

Right now he disconnects the bat to shut it off.

The darn thing is as you said always hot.
 
Hi guys. It is a Bugeye, but with a hacked wiring system. I don't need to turn any switches before hitting the starter and she runs (assuming fuel is getting to the carbs).

I'll try to test the coil per Doug's concern tonight.

Thanks guys!
 
As a stop-gap you could put one of the "Green" battery switches in it. Much quicker than the connect/disconnect the battery drill.
 
Oh my goodness, Docs back.

Rubs hands together, it's a bugeye.

Put something in your sig so I can remember what car we are talking about, my old brain needs help.

I hope you got a switch from the hardware, this easy now.

There is a white wire connedted to the ign switch, undo it to check that the ign is no longer on. If so install your switch from the hardware here as well as the wire from the fuel pump. Test switch, did you get things hooked up right, if not try the other side for the fuel pump.

Dusts off hands, sets down for a drive. Beeep beeep, Bugeye comming through.
 
Back
Top