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bugeye master cylinder

rossco

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I have a couple of spare 948 bugeye master cylinders. The plungers are corroded in the cylinders. Any way to extract those? Are they history? Is there a commercial shop that rebuilds them?
 
You would be happy with either rebuilders.

Do not pitch, replacements are like $400
 
I used Apple Hydraulics on my TR6 and Bugeye master cylinders and was quite happy with them. They always back their work and were very patient in answering my questions. Never tried Sierra Specialty.
Kevin
 
I too have used Apple and have been quite happy with their service even though I have heard others criticize them!. One thing they do warn with their rebuilds is NOT to use silicone-based fluids (rubber compatibility?)!
 
Good info gents. I now have sources to contact. This is what makes so much sense with the forum. When you're stuck out in the hinterlands with no direct contact with knowledgeble people it can be pretty bleak. Thanks again. R
 
Jack, I got my unsolicited British Motoring "magazine" from Moss today. I noticed they are now offering the tandem early Spridget master cylinders for closer to $210. I don't know if that's the same one used in a BE but it sure sounded like a better price than I last remember seeing. Anyway, it may be worth checking Moss' current prices before discussing rebuilds with Sierra or Apple.

Mike, even the new TRW/Lucas/Girling (whoever's name is on the box) master cylinders all seem to say "no DOT-5". I inquired about this and was informed that it wasn't a rubber compatibility issue so much as it was a "lubricity" issue where the DOT-5 fluid was thought by the manufacturers to not offer the correct lubricating qualities for the surface finish in the bores. I have DOT-5 in all my LBCs and no failures yet. I'm just passing along what the TRW folks said about DOT-5 in their products. It may be the same reason the rebuilders/sleevers don't want people to use DOT-5.
 
Doug,
1098 Spridgets are not the same as the earlier Bugeye and 948 Sridgets. The earlier cars used a 7/8" bore brake cylinder and the later disc brake ones used a 3/4" bore cylinder. The big stores and most of the ebay sellers pass off the 7/8" MC for everything up to the dual system cars. They will work, but apparantly, there is a definate difference in braking on the later cars.
Only a couple of vendors on ebay acually sell the 3/4" unit and it was pricy last time I checked.
 
Thanks for the information Bryan.

I checked the Moss publication again when I got home. The Moss part I mentioned above is their item 180-671 listed as a dual MC for 948 drum brake Sprites for $210. The magazine add did not list the bore size but the Moss web site does say it is 7/8" as you mentioned above. Still, based on the application and your comments above, would this not be the correct MC for Rossco (the original poster)?
 
Have a look at the two web-sites as there's discussions on the Sierra one for sure about bore diameters. When we had ours done, I asked for a change in the clutch bore to match the Datsun 5 speed we're (still) installing. The next rebuild will need non-original BE bores to match the later disc/drum brakes plus a Datsun 5 speed.

Doug
 
Doug,
So you're going to a 3/4" clutch for the 5-speed? I understand the reasoning for the 3/4" on the disc brakes, but this is the first I have heard of the 7/8" being an issue for the clutch..crud. I have a 7/8" MC I was planning to use with rivergate's slave..
 
Devin, I think that will work.
 
Check out gerhards garage (gerhardsgarage.com)for a lengthy write-up on the dual bore master cylinders. He teamed up with sierra to remanufacture 3/4" pistons to put in re-sleeved master cylinder bodies for the disk brake conversion. I went to his place and checked the operation out once when I was in San Fran. Quite impressive undertaking! Gerhard is a great guy and would love to talk to you about this spridget brake master cylinder dilema!
Regards
Mark
 
The correct spelling is Gerard. You will find that the web site has plenty of useful information. (gerardsgarage.com)
 
We kept the original 7/8" bore for the drum brakes, but went with 3/4" bore for the clutch as we'd ordered the Rivergate slave cylinder and that's what they recommended. Since I wanted the master cylinder to be rebuilt anyway, changing the bore diameter wasn't a problem - I don't remember Rivergate's comments on retaining the 7/8" bore for use with their slave.

Doug
 
Nelson said:
The correct spelling is Gerard. You will find that the web site has plenty of useful information. (gerardsgarage.com)
That's who I used for my rebored master cylinder. I'm quite pleased so far.
 
I'm having a problem with the m/c brake side bore. After bench bleeding, the piston would work fine, then the piston will bind in the bore and will not fully retract.
I just had the m/c sleeved by Sierra Speciality,(I know they do great work)so I'm sure they did the work properly.
H as anyone had this problem? I dis-assembled the brake side to look for foreign matter and found none. The only way to remove the piston is by a blast of low pressure air.
The only thing out of the ordinary was I switched from silicone brake fluid to Castrol GT LMA. I evacuated the silicone fluid by way of my power Mityvac bleeder.
I am finding small traces of silicone(small bubbles floating in the fluid). I thought maybe the seal on the piston was swelling but I was assured thats not the case.
Any thoughts please.
Thanks,
Ken
1960 Bugeye
 
Nelson said:
The correct spelling is Gerard. You will find that the web site has plenty of useful information. (gerardsgarage.com)
Oops. Shoulda checked that before posting it! thanks!
 
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