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Bugeye Ignition Wiring

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Texas_Cicada

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I want to reconnect the ignition circuit in my Bugeye so that I can start the engine before I reinstall the entire wiring harness. Can any of you describe the wiring for the ignition circuit? In other words, assume I have removed all of the wiring in the car and I want to be able to start the car without installing the wiring for everything else (e.g. - lights, turn signals, horn, windshield wipers...yep, I think that's everything.) How would I do this? What is required and what can be bypassed?
 
sure ...install motor, install coil and dizzy wire, install starter wire to starter soleniod, hook batt to starter soleniod,Hook up engine ground to frame, hook Batt Ground to ground. Run hot wire to coil, use a remote starter switch across the starter soleniod... VVVRRoOOOmmmm


that should do it...


mark /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
 
Mark, it's a Bugeye. There is no starter solenoid!
Just substitute starter switch for solenoid, and eliminate the remote starter switch referred to. Hook the jumper cable to the battery side of the switch, and use the starter pull as normally. Remember to wire the coil to the battery side of the start switch. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
Jeff
 
Thanks guys. I think I know what to do. One deviation. The PO did away with the original pull-type starter switch and replaced it with a push button on the dash. I think he ran the wires that would have gone to the starter switch to this push button on the dash. Does that sound like it could be right? Whatever he did, it started the car OK. I will know more when I get behind the dash. I am not opposed to some kind of gerry-rig until I get a replacement original-style starter switch, and I don't mind something very crude for the time being...I just need to be able to get the motor started.
 
OK. After I posted my last reply, I went back out and studied what the PO did. It looks like he added a solenoid where the original pull-type starter switch went, and connected that to the push button on the dash. In any case, I think I can follow the instructions you have gievn me and give it a go. I will let you know what happens...probably tonight or sometime tomorrow. Again, thanks for the help.
 
see..it has a solenoid....
lol ..i knew that...



mark
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif I am glad I could brighten your day. Thanks for the help!
 
OK...one more question. (You all flattered me by assuming that I have even a rudimentary understanding of ignition circuits. I don't yet...but I am getting there. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif) The coil has two screw terminals and then the big terminal that connects to the distributor. I know power has to go to one of the screw terminals. I assume that I can kill the engine by disconnecting power to this terminal. My question is: what does the other screw terminal connect to? Is it a ground? On a related note...does the case of the coil need to be grounded?
 
Tex, I shouldn't even be responding to you, because you snuck a Bugeye out of Michigan on me. Of course, I live about 300 miles from Escanaba, so I should hold no grudges!!

Regarding your ignition, and, provided this is still a stock, positive ground configuration, then:

1. The case of the coil should be grounded. This is usually done by simply bolting the coil to the generator bracket, (early cars), or the mounting provision on the upper right wheelhousing,(later vehicles), using the band around the coil.

The terminal on the coil marked SW, (or Positive +) should be the white wire, and run to the harness. The Negative, or CB terminal should be a white wire with a black tracer, running to the distributor.

If you are still having problems after all of this, eMail me at jeffreydahn@yahoo.com, and we'll get the thing sorted out!!

Jeff
 
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