Bugeye hydraulic problems

[ichthos]

I added all the fluids and lubricated everything today. My last task was to fill up the master cylinder and bleed my system. I opened up the bleeder, pumped the brake peddle, and nothing. I thought I would at least see a few bubble in the master cylinder as I depressed the peddle. Would this point to the master cylinder as being the problem? I had Apple rebuild this a few years back, and it has sat ever since. I don't know if this is part of the problem. Any suggestions on what I should do?
Kevin

 

[sim]

You said it was rebuilt but never said it was put to use 2 years ago. What does Apple know about MC?
You starting to use it now?
Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before installing?
Did you open the bleed valve on the back right brake?
How good are the brake cylinders?
Any leaks?
Why did you not rebuild the MC your self. It just a piece of cast iron with some holes drilled in it.
That why you own one of these simple cars. Do your own work. It very easy to lean on
Sim

 

[ichthos]

No, I didn't bench test the master cylinder. I guess I was a little too anxious to get this thing going. When I say Apple Hydraulics rebuilt it for me, what I meant is that they resleaved it for me. Apparently the master cylinder had been sitting for a long time and it was badly pitted. I have been very happy with their work. I am sure it is something I have done or not done. The brake cylinders are new, so I know they are not the problem. I even took them apart and checked to make sure everything moved correctly. I wish I would have done that to the master cylinder. I started by trying to bleed the front brake, but I will do as you said and open the rear. If that doesn't work, I will remove it and bench test it. Thanks,
Kevin

 

[Billm]

It takes quite a bit (couple of hours) for the fluid to leak from the res into the master bores- I have found that if I take a piece of small wire , around .020 or so and poke it in and out of that tiny hole that you can see through the fluid that it will speed up the flow tremendously. When the bubbles have stopped from doing the wire trick THEN it is time to start the system bleeding.
BillM

 

[sim]

hi
Ok Just have some one help you.take some clear hose put a small box end wrench over the bleed nipple and get it loose then sung it back just a bit. Leave the wrench on and fit the tube to the nipple. the other end goes into a clean jar.
Now your helper works the brake peddle on your command. open the nipple a bit and yell out down, Close the nipple and yell up. do this till there no air in that line. Then switch the left back and replete do the same to the front.
Then do the back right one more time and then test.

 

[bugi]

make sure the rods coming out of the mc are properly adjusted.

 

[regularman]

You have got air in there. The MC does not move enough fluid to get the air out at the slave in one stroke.

 

[drooartz]

I had very good luck using speed bleeders on my hydraulic system on the Tunebug. It's got all new bits in the brake and clutch, and I've had a really good pedal on the clutch and brakes.

The trick there is to keep your original bleed screws around -- you'll need them to initially get fluid running through the lines.

 

[jlaird]

Speed bleaders for the win.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Notes I saved on Speed Bleeders


Speed bleeder sizes:
Clutch (all spridgets) 3/8 x 24
Disc brakes 3/8 x 24 front drum brakes 3/8 x 24
Rear brakes (1 piston 1/4 leaf springs) 3/8 x 24
Rear brakes (2 piston wheel cylinder, semi eliptical leaf springs) 1/4 x 28
Found some at an Advance Auto, Dorman Help! brand, part #12701 (carried by others, like AutoZone I think) These fit my slave and should fit the front calipers. 2 for $10. I popped one in the slave, clear hose to bottle, pumped the pedal, watched a few air bubbles fly through, then nothing.

PS instead of a 7/16" wrench to turn, it's a 3/8". So I put one in my vise and bent it so I can turn through the access hole.